Winter 2019: Simone Moro and Pemba Gyalje Sherpa returned from 6400m

Dream Wanderlust | Jan 22 , 2019


1. A 7 members International (Kazakhstan-Russian-Kyrgyzstan) team, led by Vassiliy Pivtsov, aiming to summit K2 this winter via Abruzzi route, returned to Base Camp, after fixing rope up to 6300m yesterday.

20th Jan: Vassiliy's team fixed rope between Camp-1 and Camp-2.
19th Jan: Vassiliy Pivtsov, Tursunali Aubakirov, Roman Abildaev and Mikhail Danichkin set up Camp-1 at 5900m, lower than the expected altitude. They spent that night there.
18th Jan: Vassiliy Pivtsov, Tursunali Aubakirov and Roman Abildaev fixed route up to 5750m. All members had a night-stay at ABC.
17th Jan: Six members (except Artem Brown) arrived at Advanced Base Camp.
14th Jan: Team arrived at Base Camp (4960m).

K2 winter 2019

2. A 4 members Spanish-Galician team, led by Alex Txikon, aiming to summit K2 this winter, are still now at K2 Base Camp. At 5000m, the team managed to build an igloo and spent night there which eventually abetted them fight the sheer cold at Base Camp. "In the dining room tent we were at 13 degrees below zero, in the tent at minus 26 degrees, and inside the igloo we slept at -5 degrees. I have to say that it was the best night of my 8 winter expeditions," Alex describes on his Facebook Page.

Alex Txikon, K2

Nanga Parbat

A 4 members team, led by Daniele Nardi, aiming to summit Nanga Parbat this winter via a new route on Mummery's Spur. Right now there is no update from the team.
(Last Update: Daniele and Thomas climbed beyond Camp-3 on Nanga Parbat)

16th Jan: Daniele and Thomas reached 6200m on Mummery's Spur.
15th Jan: All members climbed to Camp-3 and spent that night there.
9th Jan: Set up Camp-3 (5700m). 
8th Jan: Set up Camp-2 (5200m).


Italian alpinist Simone Moro together with Pemba Gyalje Sherpa, aiming to summit Manaslu this winter via normal route without supplemental oxygen in alpine style, are back to the Base Camp of Manaslu on 20th January, 2019 from 6400m. They encountered with difficulties of passing crevasses after having set up their Camp-2 at 6000m. "After the overnight at 6000 m. today we moved forward over Camp 2 (6400 m.). We worked so hard to pass a labyrinth of crevasses but in the end we had to stop in front of an obstacle that can be overcome only with ladders (that we don’t have and in any case we would not use). We decided to descend till our camp at 6000 m., leave the material there and return to BC. As per weather forecast there will be a period of bad weather and snow. We’ll have time to rest and think of an action plan. There’s maybe one way to avoid the problems we faced today," Simone wrote on his Facebook Page.

17th Jan: Back to Base Camp from Camp-1
16th Jan: Climbed Camp-1 (5900m) from Base Camp. 
14th Jan: Flown to Base Camp from Kathmandu.
5th Jan: Summited Mera Peak for acclimatization purposes.


Photo Courtesy: K2 Winter 2019 team, Alex Txikon and Simone Moro

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