Winter 2019: It's over in Manaslu; K2 and Nanga Parbat hopes still alive

Dream Wanderlust | Jan 30 , 2019


1. A 7 members International (Kazakhstan-Russian-Kyrgyzstan) team, led by Vassiliy Pivtsov, aiming to summit K2 this winter via Abruzzi route, set up Camp-2 (6800m) on 29th January, 2019. Vassiliy Pivtsov, together with his teammates Artem Brown, Tursunali Aubakirov and Roman Abildaev have done the work.

28th Jan: Vassiliy Pivtsov, Artem Brown, Tursunali Aubakirov, Roman Abildaev and Mikhail Danichkin had spent a night under the House Chimney.
27th Jan: Reached House Chimney (6500m).
25th Jan: All members arrived at Advanced Base Camp.
21st Jan: All members returned to Base Camp, after fixing rope up to 6300m.
20th Jan: Vassiliy's team fixed rope between Camp-1 and Camp-2.
19th Jan: Vassiliy Pivtsov, Tursunali Aubakirov, Roman Abildaev and Mikhail Danichkin set up Camp-1 at 5900m, lower than the expected altitude, followed by a night-stay.
18th Jan: Vassiliy Pivtsov, Tursunali Aubakirov and Roman Abildaev fixed route up to 5750m. All members had a night-stay at ABC.
17th Jan: Six members (except Artem Brown) arrived at Advanced Base Camp.
14th Jan: Team arrived at Base Camp (4960m).

2. A 4 members Spanish-Galician team, led by Alex Txikon, aiming to summit K2 this winter, set up Camp-2 (6700m) on 28th January, 2019.

27th Jan: Waldelmar Klonowski was hit by a block of ice or a stone in his left collarbone, while carrying his gears at 6000m. He was brought to Base Camp.
26th Jan: After exploring the East Face, Alex finally announced that, they would climb via Abruzzi route. The East Face seemed very dangerous and risky. Climbed up to 5800m.
25th Jan: Alex announced that they wanted to explore K2 via East Face, arriving at Advanced Base Camp (5300m).
16th Jan: Arrived at Base Camp.

Alex Txikon

Nanga Parbat

A 4 members team, led by Daniele Nardi, aiming to summit Nanga Parbat this winter via a new route on Mummery's Spur, are now at Base Camp. Daniele and Thomas again reached Camp-3 on 28th January. Due to heavy snowfall lately, the fear of finding their damaged and submerged tent, which they had left during last ascent, became a harsh reality.

28th Jan: Daniele and Thomas reached Camp-3 again and descended to Base Camp.
26th Jan: Daniele and Thomas reached Camp-2.
16th Jan: Daniele and Thomas reached 6200m on Mummery's Spur.
15th Jan: All members climbed to Camp-3 and spent that night there.
9th Jan: Set up Camp-3 (5700m). 
8th Jan: Set up Camp-2 (5200m).


Italian alpinist Simone Moro together with Pemba Gyalje Sherpa, aiming to summit Manaslu this winter via normal route without supplemental oxygen in alpine style, abandoned the expedition because of the increasing danger of avalanche on 29th January, 2019. "Over the last few days the aim of reaching my fifth summit in winter was transformed into survival in this situation! It would take at least 2 to 3 weeks of sunshine to settle 6 meters of powder snow, but the forecast is far from good. Sometimes giving up is an essential ingredient for future success and with this decision I want to honour the nickname "winter maestro" I have been given," Simone wrote on his Facebook Page. The maximum height reached by the duo during this attempt was 6400m.

Simone MoroPhoto Courtesy: Alex Txikon & Simone Moro

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