Interview with Basanta Singha Roy about his Mt. Changabang Expedition

Q. What is your objective behind choosing Mt. Changabang expedition this year?
A. Since 1990 when I started to climb mountains, I have been doing a research on the peaks which are the most physically challenging and least ascended by climbers. In the process I came across Changabanga peak. It has been sporadically ascended by few climbers, some from the army. The mystery surrounding this peak has attracted me towards it and I decided to go for the summit.            

 Q. How many climbers will be a part of the expedition?

A. We have been preparing for this since last May. A total of 14 climbers from my club along with 6 Sherpas and 2 cooks will set out on this expedition            

Q. Through which route do you plan to go for the summit?     

A. We are planning to go for the summit through the West ridge/ west ridge wall (Broadman and Tasker’s route, 1976). If it doesn’t turn out to be feasible then we will take up the (East Ridge) route (Bornington’s route,1974).

Q. How will you equip yourselves for the expedition?

A. The usual like the other expeditions with rock piton. The peak is not as daunting as it seems because climbers have attempted before.

Q. How will the climbing style adopted by you for this peak be different from the other peaks?

A. We might need to open more routes. More ropes will be in use.

Q. Is there adequate space to set up camps?

A. Yes there is sufficent space to set camps. We will try to find that.

Q. Who will lead your team in opening the route?

A. We haven’t decided on any particular member yet. It will be a team work. 

Q. Any special preparation you underwent for this expedition?

A. We participated in many rock climbing sessions this year and practised with jumars and some rappelling

Q. What do you think will be the most difficult part of the route?

A. If we don’t make it through the west ridge, we have to go from Bagini to Shipton’s col via Rhamani Glacier then to Changabang glacier. Then we will come across a snow wall. Ascending is not very tough. The avalanche track possibly will be on our right side while ascending. The toughest part will be traversing the sharp ridges after the col between Kalanka and Changabang.

Q. How many climbers plan to go for the summit?

A. Depending on the physical condition of the climbers, at least 4-5 climbers will go for the summit.

Q. How are you preparing yourself mentally for the expedition?

A. I have advised the other members of my team to understand the gravity of the situation by browsing through the photos of that region and trying to assess the difficulties. We will cook food by ourselves till 6000m.

Q. Thank you! all the best for your expedition.

Video link for this interview: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cNh--u6IsE

West wall of Changabang - Peter Boradman and Joe Tasker's route (1976). credit: supertopo.com

South Face leading to Esat Ridge. Chris Bonington and Balwant Sandhu's (1974) route. Mt Changabang (L) and Mt. Kalanka (R). Image credit: Malay Mukherjee