29th May Everest Day | Special Feature

Dream Wanderlust

Category: Featured Article
Date of Publication: May 29 , 2017Vol-03 Issue-01

This day sixty four years ago, man first set foot on the summit of Everest.

It had been and still is a story of exploration, high adventures, triumph of the human spirit and grim tragedies.

The narrative also has socio political, scientific and economic dimensions, and also stories of heroes and villains, brotherhood and betrayal, unhealthy competitions, greed and malice.

Dream Wanderlust presents
Special Feature


North and West sides

South and West sides

East side

Kangshung Glacier

Everest from Base camp at the snout of Rongbuk Glacier

Sagarmatha National Park

15 Ways to top

Everest North Face

Everest from a camp at 20000 ft


1 Tenzing Norgay had earlier unsuccessfully tried six times to get to the top of Everest before reaching it with Edmund Hillary in 1953 on his seventh expedition.

2 Winds speed on the Everest has been recorded as high as around 200mph.

3 Everest grows about 4mm higher every year due to geologic uplift.

4 More than 33,000 feet of fixed rope is used every year to set up the South Col route.

5 The summit is just below the cruising altitude of a jet plane (around 31,000ft).

6 At least one person has died on Everest every year since 1969, except in 1977.

7 The country that has lost the most people to the mountain is Nepal.

8 An estimated 900lb (400kg) of human waste was removed from the mountain during clear-ups between 2008 and 2011.

9 The largest expedition to Everest was a 410-member Chinese team, in 1975.

10 On May 14, 2005, a Eurocopter AS-350 B3 helicopter landed on the summit for the first time, repeating the feat the next day.

11 Dr. Alexander Mitchell Kellas had concluded that Mt Everest could be ascended by men of extreme physical and mental constitution without supplementary oxygen if the physical difficulties of the mountain were not too great. In 1978, Kellas' suggestion was verified by Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler when they made the first ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen.


1 Reaching 29,029 feet (8,848 meters) above sea level, Mount Everest is the highest mountain on Earth. Located in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas, the mountain's summit straddles the border separating Tibet and Nepal.

2 Geologically speaking, Mt Everest is about 60 million years old.

3 In 1847, Andrew Waugh, the British Surveyor General of India, found a peak in the eastern end of the Himalayas which was higher than Kangchenjunga - considered the highest peak in the world at that time.

Andrew Waugh [Courtesy: Wikipedia]

Indian mathematician and surveyor Radhanath Sikdar was probably the first person to identify that Mount Everest (then known as peak XV) was the world's highest peak as he was the first person to calculate the height of the mountain in 1852. However, it was officially announced in March 1856.
The Great Trigonometric Survey of British India pegged the mountain, known to them as Peak XV, at 29,002 feet (8,840 meters). But those surveyors were at a disadvantage because Nepal would not grant them entry due to concerns that the country would be invaded or annexed. The current accepted elevation was determined by an Indian survey in 1955 and backed up by a 1975 Chinese measurement.

Radhanath Sikdar [Courtesy: Wikipedia]

The first printed map of Peak XV

Sir, I have discovered the highest mountain in the world."
- Radhanath Sikdar

4 In 1865, Andrew Waugh, the British Surveyor General of India, suggested that the mountain be named after his predecessor in the job, Sir George Everest. The Tibetans had referred to the mountain as "Chomolungma", for centuries, but Waugh did not know this because Nepal and Tibet were closed to outsiders.

George Everest

5 About 240 people have died attempting to climb Mount Everest before 1953. Avalanches, rockslides, blizzards, falls, altitude sickness, freezing temperatures, exhaustion and combinations thereof have all proven fatal, particularly in the so-called "death zone" above 26,000 feet.

6 Everest's one of the deadliest days occurred in May 1996, when eight people perished in a storm. Yet that incident, made famous by Jon Krakauer's book "Into Thin Air," did nothing to stem the tide of people willing to shell out tens of thousands of dollars for a chance to tame Earth's highest mountain.

The 2014 Everest avalanche killed sixteen people and the 2015 Nepal earthquake triggered an avalanche on Mount Everest, killing at least 18 people at South Base Camp

Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer [Courtesy: Amazon]

7 Mauna Kea, a volcano on Hawaii's Big Island, tops out at 13,796 feet above sea level. But because it rises from the ocean floor, its base-to-summit height is actually more than 33,000 feet, making it, by that measurement at least, the tallest mountain in the world. Nor is Everest (29,035 feet above sea level) the closest to outer space.

Mauna Kea [Courtesy: Wikipedia]

8 Because Earth isn't a perfect sphere-it bulges at the middle-that honour belongs to 20,561-foot Mount Chimborazo in Ecuador. Mount Everest is 28° north of the equator. Thus Chimborazo is 2.1 kilometres farther from the Earth's centre than Everest. Chimborazo is 73.5 metres higher than the highest mountain in North America.

Chimborazo [Courtesy: Wikipedia]

9 Everest is also called Chomolungma (means: mother goddess of the universe) in Tibet, Sagarmatha (means: goddess of the sky) in Nepal and Qomolangma (means: Goddess the Third) in China.

10 Although the Himalayan Mountains formed 60 million years ago, Everest's geological history actually goes back a lot further. The limestone and sandstone rock at the summit of the mountain was once part of sedimentary layers below sea level 450 million years ago.
Over time, ocean floor rocks were forced together and pushed upward at a speed of up to 11 centimetres (4.5 in) per year, eventually reaching the current position. The upper formations of Everest now contains marine fossils of sea creatures and shells that once occupied the earlier ocean.
Explorer Noel Odell first discovered the fossils embedded within Everest's rocks in 1924, proving that the mountain had once been below sea level. The first rock specimens from Everest were brought back by Swiss climbers in 1956 and by an American climbing team in 1963.

Limestone [Courtesy: Tibet Travel]

11 World's dirtiest Mountain. In 1963 National Geographic photographer Barry Bishop was part of the first American team to scale Everest, and he described the mountain as "the world's highest junk yard." Indeed, climbers ascending the mountain have discarded oxygen tanks, tattered tents, food containers, and a helicopter, and dead climbers have been left on the peak since George Mallory and Andrew Irvine died in an ascent attempt in 1924.

Garbage on Everest [Courtesy: Dailymail]

12 Exactly how tall is Mount Everest? That depends on what side of the border you're on. China has said the peak is at 8,844 meters (29,016 ft), while Nepal says 8,848 meters (29,029 ft).
That's because China argues that the mountain should purely be measured by rock height, excluding the meters of snow at the very top. Whether or not that's the better measure, the international community regularly includes snow when describing the heights of peaks around the world.
The two countries came to an agreement in 2010, settling the official height as 8,848 meters.

13 There are two main routes to the summit: the South-East Ridge route (South Col route) from Nepal and the North-East Ridge route from Tibet.

14 One of the most dangerous parts on the mountain is Khumbu ice fall of the South Col route, located at the head of the Khumbu Glacier and the foot of the Western Cwm, which lies at an altitude of 5,486 metres (17,999 ft) on the Nepal slopes.

Khumbu Icefall [Courtesy: Debasish Biswas]

15 Kushang Sherpa, originally from Nepal (now an Indian) who in 1998 became the first person in the World to reach the summit of Mount Everest from three different sides (two times from South Col, two times from North Col and once from the difficult East Khangshung Face).

16 Illegal incursion into China from Nepalon 1962 : Woodrow Wilson Sayre with his three colleagues (Roger Hart, Norman Hansen, Hans Peter Duttle) made an illegal incursion into China from Nepal and reached about 25,000 feet on the North Ridge before turning back from exhaustion. The attempt was documented in a book by Sayre entitled "Four against Everest".

Four against Everest [Courtesy: Top World Books]

17 "The Night Naked" : In 1986, Erhard Loretan and Jean Troillet climbed the North face in a single push without Oxygen, ropes, or tents in 42 hours, then glissaded down in under 5 hours. They climbed mostly at night and carried no backpacks above 8000 m, a style that became known as "night naked".

18 Dave Hahn from United States summitted most times as a foreigner. Total 15 times.

19 Melissa Arnot from United States summitted most times as a foreign woman. Total 6 times.


On 29 May 1953, Edmund Hillary of New Zealand and Nepalese Sherpa mountaineer Tenzing Norgay became the first climbers confirmed to have reached the summit of Mount Everest. They were part of the seventh British expedition to Everest, led by John Hunt.
The Swiss expedition of 1956 put the next four climbers on the top of Everest. On May 23, 1956, Ernst Schmied and JuergMarmet reached the summit followed by Dolf Reist and Hans-Rudolf von Gunten on May 24, 1956. The expedition also made the first ascent of Lhotse (fourth highest) when Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger reached the top on May 18, 1956.
Jim Whittaker of America, accompanied by Nawang Gombu did the first ascent of the West Ridge on May 22, 1963 with Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld. Hornbein and Unsoeld descended by the South Col, making the ascent the first traverse of Everest.
On May 20, 1965 a 21 member in an Indian expedition, led by Lieutenant Commander M.S. Kohli, and with the Sherpa Nawang Gombu, succeeded in putting nine men on the summit. This was the first Indian Army successful expedition from Tibet side.
Hisahi Ishiguro and Yasuo Kato led by Michio Yuasa from Japan summitted by the South Col route in the Post monsoon season for the first time on October 26, 1973.
On September 24, 1975, a British expedition led by Chris Bonington achieved the first ascent of the Southwest Face. Summiteers Doug Scott and DougalHaston made the first ascent by British citizens.
Junko Tabei of Japan became the first woman on the summit on May 16, 1975. In June 28, 1992, Tabei became the first woman to complete the Seven Summits.
Reinhold Messner of Italy and Peter Habeler from Austria reached the summit as the first climbers to do so without the use of supplementary oxygen on 8 May 1978. He used the Southeast ridge route.
On October 16, 1978, Wanda Rutkiewicz became the third woman, the first Polish and the first European woman to reach the summit of Mount Everest.
Yugoslav West Ridge expedition. A new route was opened up on West Ridge from Lho La. Summit reached by Andrej Štremfelj and Nejc Zaplotnik on May 13, 1979.
On August 20, 1980 Reinhold Messner became the first person to solo ascent without supplementary oxygen. He established a new route on the North Face.
Andrzej Zawada's team from Poland: Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki did the first winter ascent on February 17, 1980. This was also the first winter summit of any of the world's fourteen 8000 metre peaks.
May 19, 1980, new climbing route was found on the South Face by Polish mountaineers AndrzejCzok and Jerzy Kukuczka.
Takashi Ozaki and Tsuneo Shigehiro of Japan become the first to make a full ascent of the North Face on 1980.
The first acknowledged Soviet expedition climbed a new route on the Southwest Face to the left of the Central Gully on 1982. Eleven climbers reached the summit, and the route was recognized as technically the hardest route yet climbed on Everest.
One of the best planned, equipped, and financed attempts took place in October when the 1982 Canadian Mount Everest Expedition arrived. One of the members, Laurie Skreslet along with two Sherpas, made it to the top on October 5, 1982, becoming the first Canadian to reach the summit.
On December 27, 1982, Everest veteran Yasuo Kato of Japan made the second winter ascent and became the first climber to summit Everest in three different seasons. He climbed alone from the South summit.
On October 8, 1983, Lou Reichardt, Kim Momb, and Carlos Buhler became the first to summit the East Face (AKA Kangshung Face).
On April 20, 1984, Bulgarian Hristo Prodanov reached the summit via the west ridge, alone and without oxygen, and died on the way back, becoming the first Bulgarian who summit.
On May 23, 1984, Bachendri Pal by the standard South East Ridge route, became the first Indian woman to summit.
On October 3, 1984, First Australian ascent, without supplementary oxygen, on a new route ("White Limbo") on the North Face.TimMacartney-Snape and Greg Mortimer summitted.
On October 20, 1984, Phil Ershler became the first American to summit Everest's North Wall.
Sharon Wood becomes the first North American woman to summit on May 20, 1986, with Dwayne Congdon.
On 1988, Jean-Marc Boivin of France makes the first paraglide descent of the mountain. Boivin's11-12 minute, 2,948 metres (9,700 feet) descent to Camp II holds the altitude record for start of a paraglide flight.
On 16 October, 1988, Lydia Bradey of New Zealand became the first woman to climb Everest without oxygen, via the SE ridge, climbing alone.
On 12 May 1988, Stephen Venables became the first Briton to summit Everest without oxygen, alone. Team leader Robert Anderson and Ed Webster reached the South Summit.
On May 16, 1989, Ricardo Torres-Nava and two Sherpas, Ang Lhakpa and Dorje, got to the top with supplementary oxygen in an American expedition. Torres-Nava become the first Mexican and Latin American to do so.
On October 7, 1990, Marija Štremfeljandand Andrej Štremfelj of Slovenia became the first married couple to reach the summit. Marija Štremfelj was the first Slovene woman to reach the summit.
On 1990, Peter Hillary, Edmund Hillary's son, became the first offspring of a summiter to reach the summit.
On 1990, Tim Macartney-Snape from Australia became the first person to walk and climb from sea level to the top of Mount Everest (his second ascent of the peak). Macartney-Snape began his approximately 1,200 km (750 mi) "Sea to Summit" expedition three months earlier, on foot, from Sagar Island in the Bay of Bengal in India.
Santosh Yadav is an Indian mountaineer. She is the first woman in the world to climb Mount Everest twice, and the first woman to successfully climb Mt. Everest from Kangshung Face. She climbed the peak first in May 1992 and then again in May 1993.
On 1995, Nihon University climbers, of Japan, Kiyoshi Furuno and Shigeki Imoto become the first to summit along the full Northeast Ridge, the last remaining unclimbed route.
On 1996, Hans Kammerlander of Italy climbed the mountain from the North side in the record ascent time of 17 hours from Base Camp to the summit. He climbed alone without supplementary oxygen and skied down from 7,800 metres.
On 1996, GöranKropp of Sweden became the first person to ride his bicycle all the way from his home in Sweden to the mountain, scale it alone without the use of oxygen tanks, and bicycle most of the way back.
Naturalized American and British born Tom Whittaker, whose right foot had been amputated, became the first disabled person to successfully reach the summit on 1998.
On 1999, Cathy O'Dowd from South Africa became the first woman to reach summit from Northern and Southern routes.
On May 5, 1999, Elsa Ávila became the first Mexican and Latin American woman to summit.
On May 13, 1999, Japanese Ken Noguchi's summit to Mt. Everest makes him the youngest to reach the highest peaks on all seven continents at 25 years 265 days old.
On May 25, 1999, IvÁn Vallejo becames the first Ecuadorian to reach the top without bottled oxygen.
On 1999, Constantine Niarchos, billionaire's Stavros Niarchos son, became the first Greek to summit Mount Everest.
On May 17, 2000, Nazir became the first Pakistani to climb to the roof of the world.
On May 17, 2000, Frits Vrijlandt of Netherlands reached the top and became the first Dutch to summit via the North side.
On October 7, 2000, Davo Karničar of Slovenia became the first man to accomplish an uninterrupted ski descent from the top to the base camp in five hours. Karnicar reached speeds of 75 mph.
On May 24, 2001, 22-year-old Marco Siffredi of France became the first person to descend on a snowboard.
On May 25, 2001, 32-year-old Erik Weihenmayer, of Boulder, Colorado USA, became the first blind person to reach the summit.
On 2001, Manuel Arturo Barrios and Fernando GonzÁlez-Rubio became the first Colombians to reach the summit.
On May 23, 2003, Gary Guller of United States became the first person with one arm to reach the summit of Everest.
First Greek expedition, led 5 climbers to the summit from the South side and 3 from the North in the year of 2004.
On May 15, 2006, the New Zealander Mark Inglis became the first double amputee to reach the summit on two artificial legs.
On May 15, 2006, sportsman Maxime Chaya was the first Lebanese to climb Everest completing the Seven Summits challenge.
On May 19, 2006, Sophia Danenberg became the first black American and the first black woman to reach the summit.
On 2006, Pauline Sanderson of UK became the first person to complete a self-propelled ascent of Mount Everest, the highest point on the earth's surface, starting from the Dead Sea, at 420m below sea level the lowest point on the earth's surface (The World's Longest Climb). Sanderson began her approximately 8150 km "EverestMax" expedition six months earlier, by bicycle, from the shore of the Dead Sea in Jordan. (Sanderson's husband, Phil, joined her for the final ascent, making them the first married British couple to summit Everest together.).
On May 17, 2007, first Philippine traverse by three women, Noelle Wenceslao, Carina Dayondon and Janet Belarmino coming North Side, Tibet and going down in South Side, Nepal.
On 2007, the fastest ascent via the northeast ridge was accomplished by Austrian climber Christian Stangl, who took 16 hours 42 minutes for the 10 km distance from Camp III (Advanced Base Camp) to the summit, just barely beating Italian Hans Kammerlander's record of 17 hours, accomplished in 1996. Both men climbed alone.
On May 21, 2008, FaruqSaad al-Zuman reached the summit and became the first Saudi Arabian to climb Everest.
On May 20, 2009, Korean four climbers Park Young-seok, Jin Jae-chang, Kang Ki-seok and Shin Dong-min reached the summit via a new route on the Southwest face (Park's Korean Route).
The youngest person to climb Mount Everest was 13 year 10 month and 10 days old; Jordan Romero of United States on May 22, 2010 from the Tibetan side.
The oldest climber to reach the summit of Mount Everest from both sides (Nepal and Tibet) of the mountain is 60-year-old Julio Bird, a Puerto Rican cardiologist, who reached the summit of Mount Everest from the north side on 17 May 2010.
Suzanne Al Houby became the first Arab and Palestinian woman to reach the summit on May 21, 2011.
Tamae Watanabe breaks her own record as the oldest female summiteer, on 19 May, 2012 at the age of 73 years and 180 days. She reached the summit from the north side.
On May 22, 2013, Yuichiro Miura of Japan became the oldest person to reach the summit at the age of 80 years.
On May 19, 2013, Tashi and Nungshi Malik of India were the first twins in the world to summit together.
On May 25, 2014, Malavath Purna of India became the youngest girl to reach the summit at age 13 years and 11 months. She climbed from the north side.
On 2016 for the first time Cory Richards, a National Geographic photographer of Boulder, Colorado, USA, ascended from Tibet side without oxygen and Sherpa, reached the summit broadcasting live on snapchat.
On May, 2016, Nick Talbot of UK became the first person with cystic fibrosis to summit.
On May 21, 2016, Ratnesh Pandey of India was the first person to recite the National Anthem on the summit of Everest.
British climber Mollie Hughes became the youngest Briton and European woman to scale successfully from both sides (north side on May 15, 2017 at the age of 26 and south side on 2012 at the age of 21).
On May 21, 2017, Anshu Jamsenpa of Arunachal Pradesh, India became the only woman in the world to complete second double ascent (first was on 2011) and also the first mother to scale the Mount Everest twice in one session within 5 days (fastest double ascent by any women).
Spanish alpinist Kilian Jornet reached the summit of Everest twice in a week without using supplementary oxygen, fixed rope and Sherpa help.
On 27th May he took 17 hrs to reach the summit, while on 27th May (5 days back) he reached the summit within 26 hrs.
One of the most famous Nepalese female mountaineers was Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, the first Nepali female climber to reach the summit of Everest, but who died during the descent on April 22, 1993.
Ang Rita, of Nepal, is the first person with the highest number of summits without supplementary oxygen. On May 23, 1996 he summited for the 10th times (from 1983 to 1996).
Kazi Sherpa, of Nepal, is the fastest summiter with supplementary oxygen. On October 17, 1998 in 20 hours and 24 minutes he climbed from the South side Base Camp to summit.
Babu Chiri Sherpa, of Nepal is the person who stayed the longest on the summit on May 6, 1998. He stayed there for 21 hours.
Kushang Sherpa, originally from Nepal (is an Indian) who in 1998 became the first person to summit Everest from three different sides (twice from South Col., twice from North Col and once from the difficult East Khangshung Face).
Ming Kipa, at the age of 15, became the youngest woman to climb Everest on May 22, 2003.
Pemba Dorje, of Nepal, is the fastest summiter with supplementary oxygen. On May 21, 2004 in 8 hours and 10 minutes he climbed from the South side Base Camp to summit.
Pem Dorjee and Moni Mulepati were the first to marry on top of Mount Everest on May 30, 2005.
Min Bahadur Sherchan, of Nepal was the oldest male summiteers. His age was 76 years 340 days.
Apa Sherpa from Nepal was the first person with 21 summits; of times to reach summit the last on May 11, 2011
Phurba Tashi Sherpa, of Nepal became the second person with 21 summits on May 19, 2013.
Dorje Gylgen of Nepal has become the first people to climb Nuptse (7,861m), Everest (8,848m) and Lhotse (8,516m) in one continuous trip (the Everest Triple Crown) on May 21, 2013.
Chhurimis a Nepali mountaineer and the first woman to climb Mount Everest twice in the same season, a feat which was verified by the Guinness Book of World Records in 2013. She accomplished this feat in 2012, climbing Everest on May 12 and May 19 of that year. Chhurim is a Sherpa fromTaplejung in east Nepal. Like most Sherpa she uses one name, rather than a first and last name.
Lhakpa Sherpa, of Nepal became the first woman with the highest number of summits. On May 13, 2017 she reached at for the 8th times. She was also the first Nepalese woman to successfully summit and decend on May 18, 2000.
Kami Rita Sherpa, of Nepal becomes the third person of highest no. of times to reach the Summit on May 26, 2017. Total 21 times.



In 1953, John Hunt led the seventh British expedition which returned to Nepal. This expedition was organized and financed by the Joint Himalayan Committee. After WilfridNoyce and Annullu had forced a passage to the South Col, two climbing pairs selected by Hunt attempted to reach the summit. On May 26, 1953, the first pair comprising of Tom Bourdillon and Charles Evans set off for the south summit using closed-circuit oxygen equipment. At the south summit (8750 m) they realised that they would not be able to reach the summit due to oxygen equipment problems and lack of time.

Two days later, on May 28, the second assault party comprising the New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, a Nepali, made their bid. Using conventional open-circuit oxygen, they departed at 6.30 a.m. They reached the summit at 11:30 a.m. local time on May 29, 1953 climbing through the South Col route. They spent some time at the summit to take photographs. They buried a few sweets and a small cross in the snow before descending.

Although they characterized it as a collaboration of team work by the whole expedition team, there was intense public speculation as to which of the pair had set foot on the summit first. A few years later, Tenzing disclosed that matter to end the speculation and said it was Hillary. Success news of the expedition reached London on the morning of Queen Elizabeth II's coronation ceremony. Times reporter James Morris sent a coded message by runner to Namche Bazaar and a wireless transmitter was used to transmit the message to London. The conquest of Everest was probably the last major news item to be delivered to the world by runner.

Team Members

John Hunt - Expedition leader and mountaineer
Charles Evans - Deputy expedition leader and mountaineer
George Band - Mountaineer
Tom Bourdillon - Mountaineer
Alfred Gregory - Mountaineer
Wilfrid Noyce - Mountaineer
Griffith Pugh - Doctor and mountaineer
Tom Stobart - Cameraman and mountaineer
Michael Ward - Expedition doctor and mountaineer
Michael Westmacott - Mountaineer
Charles Wylie - Organizing secretary and mountaineer
Edmund Hillary - Mountaineer
George Lowe - Mountaineer
Tenzing Norgay - Mountaineer and guide
Sherpa Annullu - Mountaineer and guide

Summit Members

Edmund Hillary
Tenzing Norgay

The pull of Everest was stronger for me than any force on Earth."
- Tenzing Norgay

Well, George, we knocked the bastard off."
- Edmund Hillary

Before setting out on the expedition Tenzing Norgay sought the blessing of his mother, Kinzom, at Thyangboche monastery. She wanted to be sure he was fit and well enough to go; having satisfied herself, she returned to her home. [Courtesy: Royal Geographical Society (with IBG)]

Members of the expedition check and sort through their stores and equipment at the town of Bhadgaon. Around 13 tons of baggage accompanied the expedition. Hundreds of porters were needed to transport it all to base camp. [Courtesy: Royal Geographical Society (with IBG)]

Any water that wasn't frozen was warm enough to bathe in. At least, that seems to have been the view of Edmund Hillary, seen here enjoying a bracing dip in a mountain stream. [Courtesy: Royal Geographical Society (with IBG)]

New Zealander George Lowe watches Tenzing Norgay test-fit crampons to his new climbing boots at the expedition's camp alongside the monastery at Thyangboche, where they stayed for three weeks to acclimatise. [Courtesy: Royal Geographical Society (with IBG)]

The expedition's base camp on the Khumbu glacier, with the peak of Lingtren rearing up behind. Snowfall covered everything in a white mantle. [Courtesy: Royal Geographical Society (with IBG)]

Sherpas, dwarfed by the landscape of broken ice and snow, carry heavy loads along a tortuous route through the Khumbu icefall on their way to camp II. [Courtesy: Royal Geographical Society (with IBG)]

Sherpas are led across the western Cwm, which was riven with deep crevasses. They appear to be on firm snow but the problem with the terrain was always that appearances could be deceptive. [Courtesy: Royal Geographical Society (with IBG)]

Sherpas ferrying supplies across a log bridge over a crevasse in the western Cwm. The crampons on their boots make the procedure doubly hazardous. The expedition had only two aluminium ladders and a few tree trunks to bridge crevasses. [Courtesy: Royal Geographical Society (with IBG)]

The first ascent of Mount Everest by the climbers in 1953 [Courtesy: New York Times]

Advance base, camp IV, at the foot of the Lhotse face at 6,500m. From here, loads had to be carried up the steep and hazardous face, and then across it to reach the windswept South Col of Everest. [Courtesy: Royal Geographical Society (with IBG)]

Sherpas enjoying a well-earned break at camp IV. Snow goggles were essential to combat the glare from the surrounding landscape. [Courtesy: Royal Geographical Society (with IBG)]

Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay approach laden with extra equipment to establish their final camp, at almost 8,534m. The photograph was taken by Alf Gregory, a member of their support team. From this point on they would be on their own. [Courtesy: Royal Geographical Society (with IBG)]

Hillary's view to the west from the summit, with Pumori in the foreground. Cho Oyu (centre) and the West Rongbuk glacier (bottom right) can also be seen. [Courtesy: Royal Geographical Society (with IBG)]

Expedition members on their way back to camp IV after the triumph of 29 May, 1953. Left to right, Charles Evans, Edmund Hillary, Tenzing Norgay, Tom Bourdillon and George Band. [Courtesy: Royal Geographical Society (with IBG)]

Members of the successful expedition. John Hunt can be seen in the front standing row (third left). To his left is Tenzing Norgay and immediately behind him Edmund Hillary. [Courtesy: Royal Geographical Society (with IBG)]

Members of the 1953 British Everest Expedition [Courtesy: Daily Mail]

Tenzing Norgay on Everest [Courtesy: Edmund Hillary/Royal Geographical Society]

John Hunt, Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary [Courtesy: George W. Hales/Hulton Archive]

40th Anniversary at RGS, May 1993. The Queen with the team

Daily Mail June 2, 1953

Khumbu Icefall 1953

Tenzing Hillary Route

James Moris of The Times congratulates Hillary - the 'scoop' of his life

The first summit news

Hillary, Tenzing leaving C-4

Khumbu Icefall

The open circuit oxygen set developed for 1953, together with a two-man high altitude tent and John Hunt's expedition diary

Diagram of Hillary's shirt and feet measurement


The four climbers from Switzerland reached the top of Everest in 1956. The expedition was successful in completing the first ascent of Lhotse (fourth highest) when Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger reached the top of Lhotse on May 18. The expedition set up camp 6 on the South Col and camp 7 at 8,400 metres (27,600 ft). On May 23, Ernst Schmied and JuergMarmet reached the summit of Everest followed by Dolf Reist and Hans-Rudolf von Gunten on May 24.

Summit Members

Ernst Schmied and Juerg Marmet on May 23
Dolf Reist and Hans-Rudolf von Gunten on May 24

Base Camp with a view of the dangerous Khumbu Icefall, the way in to the Valley of Silence. [Courtesy: Swissinfo.ch]

Camp in the Valley of Silence. The Khumbu Icefall as a way in had been crossed for the first time by the Swiss expedition in 1952. [Courtesy: Swissinfo.ch]

Sherpas in the Valley of Silence. They were supplied with the same equipment as the Swiss. [Courtesy: Swissinfo.ch]

Dölf Reist (left) and Hansruedi von Gunten after their successful ascent of Everest, back in their tent on the South Col. [Courtesy: Swissinfo.ch]

Rope partner Hansruedi von Gunten kits himself out on the South Col for the climb to the summit of Everest, the third ever. [Courtesy: Swissinfo.ch]

A sherpa uses a tree-trunk bridge to cross the dangerous Khumbu Icefall. Towers of ice can collapse at any time. [Courtesy: Swissinfo.ch]

Sherpas in Camp 3 on Everest at 6,400 metres, where it can be hot in the sun but bitterly cold in the shade. [Courtesy: Swissinfo.ch]

A historic moment: On May 18, 1956, Fritz Luchsinger (pictured) and Ernst Reiss (who took the picture) became the first to stand on the Lhotse,  the fourth-highest mountain in the world at 8,516 metres. Luchsinger has the flags of Switzerland and Nepal fastened to his ice pick. [Courtesy: Swissinfo.ch]

The return in 1956 of the 'Swiss heroes' from Everest at Zurich airport, where they were welcomed by their families, political and military dignitaries and a brass band. Dölf Reist is the small figure left of centre holding a bouquet of flowers. [Courtesy: Swissinfo.ch]


A Chinese team comprising of Wang Fuzhou, QuYinhua and a Tibetan, Gongbu (Konbu), claimed to have reached the summit on May 25 via the North Ridge. Owing to the lack of photographic evidence, the Chinese claim could not be substantiated and was not accepted in mountaineering circles. However, subsequent research and interviews have convinced many experts that the Chinese did indeed climb Everest from the north in 1960.

Team Members

Wang Fuzhou
Qu Yinhua
Gongbu (Konbu)

1960 China Mount Everest First Everest hand-painted map [Courtesy: sohu.com]

Team at 7150m on the ice slope [Courtesy: sohu.com]

Chinese team climbing Everest [Courtesy: sohu.com]

Wang Fuzhou, Gongbu and Qu Yinhua [Courtesy: sohu.com]


Jim Whittaker and Nawang Gombu Sherpa have reached the top of the world highest peak on May 1, 1963. Jim Whittaker is the first American to stand atop of the world.

Americans, Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld were the first ones to ascend West ridge on May 22. Hornbein and Unsoeld descended via the South Col, making this ascent the first traverse of Everest.

Team Members

Jim Whittaker
Nawang Gombu
Tom Hornbein
Willi Unsoeld
Barry Bishop
Lute Jerstad

Everest map [Courtesy: eddiebauer.com]

Jim Whittaker on the summit of Everest [Courtesy: eddiebauer.com]

Willi Unsoeld and photographer Barry Bishop [Courtesy: Tom Hornbein]

Tom Hornbein on the summit Everest [Courtesy: Willi Unsoeld]

Tom Hornbein on the West Shoulder of Everest [Courtesy: Willi Unsoeld]

Willi Unsoeld [Courtesy: Tom Hornbein]

Willi Unsoeld and Tom Hornbein at Camp 2 [Courtesy: Richard M. Emerson]

[Courtesy: National Geographic]

Everest: The West Ridge by Thomas F. Hornbein [Courtesy: Tom Hornbein]


On May 20, team of 21 Indian climbers, led by Lieutenant Commander M.S. Kohli, succeeded in putting nine men on the summit. Nawang Gombu became the first person to reach the summit twice, first with the American expedition in 1963.

Team Members

Capt. M. S. Kohli - Expedition Leader
Lt. Col. N. Kumar
Gurdial Singh
Maj. Mulk Raj
Capt. A. S. Cheema
Nawang Gombu
Sonam Gyatso
Sonam Wangyal
C. P. Vohra
Ang Kami
Maj. H. P. S. Ahluwalia
H. C. S. Rawat
Maj. B. P. Singh
Capt. J. C. Joshi
Maj. H. V. Bahuguna
Dr. D. V. Telang
Capt. A. K. Chakravarti
G. S. Bhangu
Hav. Balakrishnan
Lt. B. N. Rana
Ang Tshering - Sherpa Sirdar
Phu Dorji - Assistant Sherpa Sirdar
'General' Thondup - Chief Cook
Dhanu - Cook
Dawa Norbu I

Major Ahluwalia with Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru [Courtesy: wikipedia]

Team [Courtesy: Capt. M S Kohli]

The 1965 base camp at 17,800 feet. [Courtesy: HPS Ahluwalia]

Base Camp [Courtesy: Capt. M S Kohli]

The 1965 expedition makes its way trough the Khumbu Icefall [Courtesy: Mercury Himalayan Expeditions]

C P Vohra on Everest [Courtesy: Capt. M S Kohli]

Celebration after ascent [Courtesy: Capt. M S Kohli]

First day cover and stamp on the 1965 Indian Everest Expedition [Courtesy: 4.bp.blogspot.com]

PM Narendra Modi with the surviving members of 1965 Expedition on May 20, 2015 [Courtesy: pmindia.gov.in]


On May 6, Yuichiro Miura skied down along the South Col. The documentary of his feat "The Man Who Skied Down Everest" was the first sports film to win an Academy Award for Best Documentary Feature.

A separate Japanese team attempted on the same year but failed to establish a new summit route along the Southwest Face. Six Sherpa members of the team were killed in an avalanche; a porter was killed by a serac icefall, and climber Kiyoshi Narita died from a heart attack.

After the winds died down, at 1:07 p.m., the 37-year old skier started his descent in earnest [Courtesy: Akira Kotani]

The Man Who Skied Down Everest by Yuichiro Miura [Courtesy: Wikipedia]


Michio Yuasa, led a large forty-eight men Japanese expedition attempted both the SW Face and South Col route. The SW Face party reached an altitude of 27,200 feet (8,300 meters) before giving up. Success was achieved on the South Col when Hisahi Ishiguro and Yasuo Kato reached the summit, the first post-monsoon success on the mountain.


On September 24, a British expedition led by Chris Bonington achieved the first ascent of the Southwest Face. Summiteers Doug Scott and his ropemate Scotsman Dougal Haston made the first ascent by British citizens. The SW Face had defeated five previous expeditions between 1969 and 1973 due to a band of cliffs known as the Rock Band. On September 20, Nick Estcourt and Paul Braithwaite achieved the first ascent of the Rock Band. The summit was reached by two teams: the first team comprising of Scott and Haston. They reached the summit on 24th May. They survived the highest ever bivouac when they were benighted on the South Summit during their descent. On September 26 four more climbers attempted a second ascent. Peter Boardman and Sirdar Pertemba Sherpa were successful but BBC cameraman Mick Burke, climbing alone after Martin Boysen turned back, failed to return from the summit.

Team Members

Chris Bonington - Leader
Hamish MacInnes
Peter Boardman
Martin Boysen
Paul Braithwaite
Mick Burke
Mike Cheney
Charles Clarke
Dave Clarke
Jim Duff
Nick Estcourt
Alien Fyffe
Adrian Gordon
Dougal Haston
Ronnie Richards
Mike Rhodes
Doug Scott
Mike Thompson
Sirdar Pertemba

Summit Members

Dougal Haston and Doug Scott on Sept 24
Boardman and Sirdar Pertemba on Sept 26

The upper part of Everest SW face [Courtesy: Peter Boardman / Ronnie Richards]

Dougal Haston climbing towards camp 5 [Courtesy: facebook.com/SundayTimesPictures]

Dougal Haston survey's the peak from the lower slopes, prior to the start of his final successful assault on the summit. [Courtesy: facebook.com/SundayTimesPictures]

Base camp to camp 1 [Courtesy: facebook.com/SundayTimesPictures]

Braithwaite climbing the ramp to the rock of the Rock Band [Courtesy: Peter Boardman / Ronnie Richards]

Dougal Haston on final assault of summit. [Courtesy: facebook.com/SundayTimesPictures]

The trek from base camp 1 [Courtesy: facebook.com/SundayTimesPictures]

Camp 4 with Cho Oyu beyond [Courtesy: facebook.com/SundayTimesPictures]

Dougal Haston climbing the Everest Hillary Step [Courtesy: mountainsoftravelphotos.com]

The summit ridge with S South and Lhotse [Courtesy: Peter Boardman / Ronnie Richards]

Near summit [Courtesy: facebook.com/SundayTimesPictures]

Dougal Haston and Doug Scott on Everest Summit [Courtesy: mountainsoftravelphotos.com]

The Sunday Times Sunday, October 05, 1975 [Courtesy: facebook.com/SundayTimesPictures]

The Sunday Times Sunday, October 05, 1975 [Courtesy: facebook.com/SundayTimesPictures]

First Ascent SW Face 40th Anniversary [Courtesy: twitter.com/BlencathraFSC]

Dougal Haston on the Southwest Face of Everest in 1975 [Courtesy: BBC]


Reinhold Messner (Italy) and Peter Habeler (Austria) reached the summit of Mount Everest on May 8,1978 without the use of supplementary oxygen. They used the southeast ridge route.

Reinhold Messner, Peter Habeler 1978 [Courtesy: aboutoutdoors]


This Yugoslav expedition has opened a new route (West ridge) to Everest via the Lho-La. Two separate team reached the summit of Everest. First team comprising of Andrej Štremfelj and Nejc Zaplotnik conquered the top of Everest at 13:51 on May 13, 1979, and then two days later, on 15th May 1979, second team comprising of Stipe Bozic, StaneBelak and Ang Phu reached the summit at 14:30. StaneBelak, AngPhu and Stipe Bozic bivouacked at 8300 meters. The next day, Ang Phu fell on the way down and died.

Expedition Route [Courtesy: novi.ba]

On the way to summit [Courtesy: onger.org]

Stipe on the Summit of Everest [Courtesy: everesthistory.com]

Nejc Zaplotnik 13 May 1979 on the summit of Everest [Courtesy: Andrej Štremfelj]

Andrej on the summit of Everest [Courtesy: novi.ba]


First winter ascent was made by Andrzej Zawada's team from Poland on Feb 17, 1980 Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki from the Polish team reached the summit at 2.25 pm on 17th Feb. It was also the first successful winter expedition to any of the peaks above 8000 m.

Map [Courtesy: Summitpost.org]

Team [Courtesy: Bogdan Jankowski]

At Khumbu Glacier [Courtesy: Stanis?aw Jaworski]

Krzysztof Wielicki on top of the Everest [Courtesy: Leszek Cichy]


May 19 - New climbing route on the south face discovered by Polish mountaineers Andrzej Czok and Jerzy Kukuczka.

Andrzej Heinrich, Kazimierz Olech and Andrzej Czok rest in the base camp [Courtesy: wikivisually.com]

Andrzej Czok and Jerzy Kukuczka on the way to the summit [Courtesy: Adam Bilczewski]

Andrzej on the summit [Courtesy: drytooling.com.pl]


August 20 - Reinhold Messner became the first to climb Everest solo and without supplementary oxygen. He pioneered a new route on the north col/face, roughly continuing Finch's climb in 1922. He travelled from the Northwest route for three days entirely alone from his base camp at 6,500 metres (21,300 ft).

Reinhold Messner on summit [Courtesy: Reinhold Messner]

Dihydrated and exhausted at ABC

The Crystal Horizon [Courtesy: Amazon]


Takashi Ozaki and Tsuneo Shigehiro become the first to make a full ascent of the North Face.

Takashi Ozaki [Courtesy: everesthistory.com]


The first acknowledged Soviet expedition climbed Mount Everest via a new route on the Southwest Face to the left of the Central Gully. Eleven climbers reached the summit. The route was recognized as technically the hardest route yet climbed on Everest.


Lou Reichardt, Kim Momb, and Carlos Buhler became the first to summit the East Face of Mount Everest on 8th October. The next day Dan Reid, George Lowe and Jay Cassell reached the summit.

Kangshung Face [Courtesy: mountainsoftravelphotos.com]


French alpinist and pilot Jean Marc Boivin was the first person to fly a paraglider from the top. Boivin's 11-12 minute, 2,948 metres (9,700 ft) descent to Camp II holds the altitude record for start of a paraglider flight.


Tim Macartney-Snape became the first person to walk and climb all the way from sea level to the top of Mount Everest (his second ascent of the peak). Macartney-Snape began his approximate 1,200 km (750 mi) "Sea to Summit" expedition three months earlier, on foot, from Sagar Island in the Bay of Bengal.

Map [Courtesy: gearjunkie.com]

Tim Macartney-Snape at Bay of Bengal [Courtesy: gearjunkie.com]

Tim Macartney-Snape at Everest Base Camp [Courtesy: gearjunkie.com]

Tim Macartney-Snape at the summit [Courtesy: gearjunkie.com]


Nihon University climbers Kiyoshi Furuno and Shigeki Imoto became the first to summit along the full Northeast Ridge, and that was the last remaining unclimbed route.


In 1996, fifteen people died trying to reach the summit, making it the deadliest year in Everest history. On May 10, a storm stranded several climbers between the summit and the safety of Camp IV, killing 15 people including Rob Hall, Scott Fischer, Yasuko Namba, Doug Hansen and guide Andy Harris on the south and the Indian (Ladakhi) climbers Tsewang Paljor, Dorje Morup, Tsewang Smanla on the north. Hall and Fischer were both highly experienced climbers who were leading paid expeditions to the summit.

Journalist Jon Krakauer, on assignment from Outside magazine, was in Hall's party. He wrote a best-selling book about the incident, "Into Thin Air" which was published in 1997.

In May 2004, Kent Moore, a physicist, and John L. Semple, a surgeon, both researchers from the University of Toronto, told New Scientist magazine that an analysis of weather conditions on that day and they suggested that freak weather caused oxygen levels to plunge approximately 14%.

The storm impacted climbers on the mountain's other side, the North Ridge, where several climbers also died. It was detailed in a first-hand account by British filmmaker and writer Matt Dickinson in his book, "The Other Side of Everest".

Summit Members

Rob Hall - Expedition Leader
Mike Groom - Guide
Andy Harris
- Guide
Frank Fischbeck - Client
Doug Hansen - Client
Stuart Hutchison - Client
Lou Kasischke - Client
Jon Krakauer - Client
Yasuko Namba - Client
John Taske - Client
Beck Weathers - Client
Sardar Ang Dorje Sherpa - Sherpa
Arita Sherpa - Sherpa
Chuldum Sherpa - Sherpa
Kami Sherpa - Sherpa
Lhakpa Chhiri Sherpa - Sherpa
Ngawang Norbu Sherpa - Sherpa
Tenzing Sherpa - Sherpa
Lopsang Jangbu

Rob Hall Team [Courtesy: trekkingnepalhimalaya.org]

Everest movie poster [Courtesy: trekkingnepalhimalaya.org]


Eric Simonson and Jochen Hemmleb lead a team of high altitude mountaineers up the Mount Everest's North Ridge in search of evidence of English climbers George Mallory and Andrew Irvine, who disappeared in 1924 just 900 feet below the summit. Conrad Anker of that team discovered the body of George Mallory at 8,165 m, roughly below the ice axe discovered on the North-East Ridge in 1933. No camera was found. Rope-jerk mottling around Mallory's waist suggest he was roped to Irvine during that-or a previous fall.

Irvine's ice axe, found on the North-East Ridge in 1933

Mallory' Hob-nailed boot, goggles, altimeter, and wrist watch with his monogrammed hankerchief

Team [Courtesy: Schelleen Rathkopf]

Conrad Anker stands over the 75 year old remains of famed British climber George Leigh Mallory [Courtesy: Jake Norton]


Davo Karnicar, of Slovenia, became the first person ever to make an uninterrupted ski descent from the top of the world's highest mountain, Mount Everest (29,035 ft) on October 7, 2000. Karnicar reached speeds of 75 mph. He reached the summit with team-mate Franc Oderlap and Sherpas Ang Dorjee and Pasang Tenzing. Three of them would walk back down after Davo started on skis. After the descent, Karnicar said the most difficult section was south summit which was not only steep, but also avalanche-prone.


Marco Siffredi (22) of France became the first person to descend on a snowboard on May 24, 2001.

Descent from Everest [Courtesy: JM Portes]


The Eurocopter AS-350 B3 helicopter flew and landed on the summit for the first time on May 14, 2005.

Didier DelSalle with F-WQEX, at Lukla, Nepal, 2005 [Courtesy: thisdayinaviation.com]

Eurocopter AS350B3 c/n 3934, F-WQEX, at Mount Everest. (Eurocopter) [Courtesy: thisdayinaviation.com]


Pauline Sanderson became the first person to complete a self-propelled ascent of Mount Everest, the highest point on the earth's surface. She started her journey from the Dead Sea, at -423 metres (-1,388 ft) the lowest point on the earth's surface. Sanderson began her approximately 8,000 km (5,000 mi) "EverestMax" expedition six months earlier, by bicycle, from the shore of the Dead Sea in Jordan. (Sanderson's husband, Phil, joined her for the final ascent, making them the first married British couple to summit Everest together.).

Pauline on the summit of Everest [Courtesy: P.Sanderson/ukclimbing.com]


Korean climbers Park Young-seok, Jin Jae-chang, Kang Ki-seok and Shin Dong-min reached the summit of Everest via a new route on the Southwest face on May 20, 2009 (Park's Korean Route).

Park's Korean Route [Courtesy: Park Young-seok]

Kang Ki-seok in couloir, climbing toward Camp 5 [Courtesy: Park Young-seok]

High on west ridge of Everest during summit day of Park's Korean Route [Courtesy: Park Young-seok]

[Courtesy: Park Young-seok]


There are few athletic feats as audacious and inspiring as climbing Mt. Everest without supplementary oxygen. In 2016, climbers Adrian Ballinger from USA (mountain guide) and Cory Richards from Australia used Snap chat to tell the story of their attempt to climb Everest without oxygen. Cory made it to the top. Adrian had to stop just before the summit due to hypothermia.

A breakthrough project for expedition journalism, #EverestNoFilter marks the first time a guide or athlete team has given an exclusive, unfiltered view into the extraordinary experience of climbing the world's tallest mountain. The duo's Snap chat account grew a following of hundreds of thousands of views per day.

"This experience has been extraordinary," Richards said. "Emotion overwhelms me as I look at the path the last five years has led me down - or up, rather - and to be able to share that journey with the world, I'm humbled and very grateful. I owe immeasurable gratitude to Adrian without whom this journey would not have been possible."

Cory Richards and Adrian Ballinger [Courtesy: Mark Stone]

Cory Richards on Everest [Courtesy: Cory Richards]


Climbers Adrian Ballinger and Cory Richards, use Snapchat to tell the story of their attempt to climb Everest without oxygen. In 2016, Cory made it to the top while Adrian had to stop just before the summit due to hypothermia. In 2017 they returned with the Everest No Filter 2.0. They have reached the summit of Everest via North side May 27, 2017.Adrian completes it without the help of Oxygen and Cory has used Oxygen for last 3 hrs to support Adrian.
They have been Sharing their day-to-day experiences via Snapchat during their epic climb.


Spanish alpinist Kilian Jornet reached the summit again on 27th May, 2017 from North Side without supplementary oxygen, fixed rope and Sherpa help. This time he took 17 hrs to reach the summit in a very windy condition.Previously on 22nd May (5 days back) he reached the summit within 26 hrs, in a single climb without the help of oxygen or fixed ropes.


Anshu Jamsenpa (37) of Arunachal Pradesh, India with Furi Sherpa and Chong Karma Sherpa reached the summit of the Everest on May 21, 2017. It's the second time she has notched up an Everest double ascent. She made her first ascent on 16 May and attempted the feat again on 21 May. Her previous feat was in 2011, but those ascents came 10 days apart.



On his way from Sikkim to the first expedition to Everest, Alexander Mitchell Kellas, who was a Scottish chemist, died of a heart attack in 1921 near the village of Kampa Dzong, Tibet.

Alexander Mitchell Kellas [Courtesy: Wikipedia]


1922 British Mount Everest expedition was the first Everest expedition. The expedition would attempt to climb Mount Everest from the north side of the mountain. After two unsuccessful summit attempts the expedition ended on the third attempt when several porters died as the result of avalanche. In the medical opinion of Longstaff they should not make a third try as all mountaineers were exhausted and ill. However, Somervell and Wakefield saw no big risks and a third try was undertaken.

On 3 June Mallory, Somervell, Finch, Wakefield and Crawford started with 14 porters at base camp. Finch had to quit in Camp I. The others arrived in Camp III on 5 June and spent one day there. Mallory had been impressed by the power of Finch. Finch climbed much higher in the direction of the summit in the second attempt and was nearer to the summit in horizontal distance.

On 7 June Mallory, Somervell and Crawford led the porters through the icy slopes of North Col. The 17 men were divided into four groups, each one roped together. The European mountaineers were in the first group and compacted the snow. Half way a piece of snow became loose. Mallory, Somervell and Crawford were partially buried under snow but managed to free themselves. The group behind them was hit by an avalanche of 30 m of heavy snow, and the other nine porters in two groups fell into a crevasse and were buried under huge masses of snow. Two porters were dug out of the snow, six other porters were dead, and one porter could not be retrieved dead or alive. This accident was the end of the climbing and marked the end of this expedition. Mallory had made a mistake attempting to go straight up on the icy slopes instead of trying lesser slopes in curves. As a result, the climbers triggered an avalanche.

Mallory blamed himself for the accident, and later wrote to his wife, Ruth, "There is no obligation I have so much wanted to honor as taking care of those men."

On 2 August all the European expedition members were back in Darjeeling.

Victims (7 Sherpas): Dorje, Lhakpa, Norbu, Pasang, Pema, Sange, Temba

Team [Courtesy: Wikipedia]

Passport issued to first Everest Expedition, 1921 [Courtesy: Wikipedia]

On trek after wading a river: Somervell, Wakefield and Mallory [Courtesy: livemint.com]


The 1924 Everest expedition seemed full of promise. It was George Mallory's third trip. he believed he'd deciphered much of the route; the summit was indeed within his grasp. He was determined and didn't want to come back again. What his climbing partner, Andrew "Sandy" Irvine, lacked in experience he made up for in raw athleticism and mechanical skill (he was an expert with the oxygen system). The pair was last seen on June 8, around 1 p.m., by Noel Odell, a teammate who had climbed partway up the North Face and during a break in the clouds, observed, "none other than Mallory and Irvine ... moving expeditiously" toward the summit before the clouds closed back in.

Mallory's body was found in 1999, broken bones indicated a lethal fall. Irvine has never been discovered. Although many experts seem to conclude that the chance of Mallory and Irvine reached the summit is slim, the mystery endures-as do periodic searches for the camera and the further clues it might contain.

Victims (2): Andrew Irvine, George Mallory

Team [Courtesy: secretsoftheice.com]

The last photo of Mallory and Irvine, taken on June 6th 1924, as they were departing the North Col. Two days later they disappeared during their summit attempt [Courtesy: secretsoftheice.com]

The telegram carried the death news of Mallory and Irvine

Remains of George Mallory [Courtesy: secretsoftheice.com]

We had seen a whole mountain range, little by little, the lesser to the greater until, incredibly higher in the sky than imagination had ventured to dream the top of Everest itself appeared."
- George Mallory

The mighty summit...seemed to look down with cold indifference on me...and howl derision in wind-gusts at my petition to yield up its secret-this mystrey of my friends."
- Noel Odell on the disappearance of Mallory and Irvine


Most of the Wilson's activities on the mountain come from his diary, which was recovered the following year and is now stored in the Alpine Club archives.

He was inexperienced in glacier travel. He found the trek route upto the Rongbuk Glacier extremely difficult and constantly lost his bearing and had to retrace his steps. He found a pair of crampons at an old camp which would have helped him to climb but he showed his lack of experience and threw them away. After five days, in worsening weather he was still two miles short of Ruttledge's Camp III below the North Col. He wrote in his diary "It's the weather that's beaten me - what damned bad luck" and began a gruelling four-day retreat down the glacier. He arrived back at the monastery. He was completely exhausted, snow blind and had a badly twisted ankle.

He took eighteen days to recover from his ordeal and after that he desired to climb again on 12 May. This time he took two Sherpas, Tewand and Rinzing with him. With the Sherpas' knowledge of the glacier they made quicker progress and in three days they reached Camp III near the base of the slopes below the North Col. They were trapped in that camp for several days due to bad weather. Wilson considered possible routes by which he could climb the ice slopes above, and made a telling comment in his diary - "Not taking short cut to Camp V as at first intended as should have to cut my own road up the ice and that's no good when there is already a hand rope and steps (if still there) to Camp IV".

on the 21 May, he finally made an abortive attempt to climb to the North Col, he was extremely disappointed to find no trace of the rope, or the steps. The next day he began a further attempt to reach the col. After four days of slow progress and camping on exposed ledges, he was defeated by a forty-foot ice wall at around 22,700 ft.

On his return the Sherpas requested him to return with them to the monastery, but he refused. He still believed that he could climb to the mountain. Writing in his diary "this will be a last effort, and I feel successful" he set out for the last time on 29 May, alone. Too weak to attempt the Col on that day, he camped at its base, a few hundred yards from where the Sherpas were camped. The next day he stayed in his bed. His last diary entry was dated 31 May, and read simply "Off again, gorgeous day". When he did not return from his last attempt, Tewand and Rinzing left the mountain. They reached Kalimpong in late July, and spread the news to the world of Wilson's death.

His body was found 1935 at East Rongbuk glacier, cause of death possibly exhaustion, exposure or starvation..

Victim: Maurice Wilson

Maurice Wilson [Courtesy: alchetron.com]


The year 1970 was a busy one on the mountain. Several large expeditions were stationed on the south side of the mountain, including a Japanese ski expedition starring Yuichiro Miura. Six Nepalese Sherpas died due to an avalanche on Mount Everest on 5 April 1970 in the Khumbu Icefall. All of them were assisting the Japanese ski expedition.

Another death on that season came from another Japanese expedition team. The deceased name was Kyak Tsering, who was killed by a serac icefall.

Victims (8): Mima Norbu, Nima Dorje, Tshering Tarkey, Pasang, Kunga Norbu, Kami Tshering, Kyak Tshering (Porter) - Seracs fall, Kiyoshi Narita - Heart Attack

Everest: Yuichiro Miura And Japanese Everest Skiing Expedition


British SW Face Expedition led by Chris Bonington including climbers Mick Burke, Nick Estcourt, Dougal Haston, K. Kent, Hamish MacInnes, Tony Tighe, and Doug Scott. A post-monsoon expedition, it confronted terrible weather. They reached an elevation of 27,200 feet (8,300 meters) below the Rock Band before retreating. Tragically, Tony Tighe is killed in the icefall during the descent.

Victim: Tony Tighe

Expedition poster [Courtesy: kelvinkent.com]

Base Camp [Courtesy: kelvinkent.com]

Camp 2 [Courtesy: kelvinkent.com]

Icefall zone [Courtesy: kelvinkent.com]

Western Cwm from camp 1 to camp 2 [Courtesy: kelvinkent.com]

Finding safe route [Courtesy: kelvinkent.com]

Temperatures down to 40 below [Courtesy: kelvinkent.com]

A clear day. Looking back down the Western Cwm from the route up to camp 3 [Courtesy: kelvinkent.com]

Camp 4 at about 24,700 ft [Courtesy: kelvinkent.com]

Winds at blizzard force [Courtesy: kelvinkent.com]

The remains of camp 4 after a bad storm [Courtesy: kelvinkent.com]

Looking across Nuptse and a mile down to the Western Cwm [Courtesy: kelvinkent.com]

Doug Scott at the high point before he and Haston had to come down [Courtesy: kelvinkent.com]

A memory that does not die [Courtesy: kelvinkent.com]


In 1974, an ambitious French expedition led by Frenchman Gerard Devouassoux, a post- monsoon attempt to climb the West Ridge Direct starting from the Lho La. The first ascent credit on that route goes to Willie Unsoeld and Tom Hornbein for their 1963 climb, But they didn't climb the entire ridge to the summit. Devouassoux and 19 team members intended to "straighten the route out." The expedition eventually reaches the West Shoulder by September 9. A major lapse in monitoring weather reports prevents them from learning that an unexpected return of warm monsoon weather is about to occur. The tragic result is that Gerald Devouassoux and five Sherpa are swept away in an immense avalanche, after which the expedition is called off. Their bodies were never recovered from the debris. It was one of the worst single incidents ever recorded on the peak, and after that climbers avoided the West Ridge for the next five years.

Victims (6): Gérard Devouassoux, Pemba Dorje, Lhakpa, NawangLutuk, Nima Wangchu, Sanu Wongal


After Chris Bonington's 1975 successful expedition, BBC cameraman Mick Burke, climbing alone after Martin Boysen failed to return from the summit.

Victim: Mick Burke


Yugoslav West Ridge expedition, new route up West Ridge from Lho La. Ang Phu fell on the way down and died.

Victim: Ang Phu


Hannelore Schmatz of West Germany, age 39, dies on Everest descending from the Summit after becoming only the 4th woman to summit Everest. Schmatz died on October 2, 1979 while descending Mount Everest.

On the same expedition, an American climber Ray Genet, who also died while descending from the summit. Genet's body ultimately disappeared under the snow, but Schmatz's body was swept further down in the mountain.

Two Sherpa guides, Sungdare Sherpa and Ang Jangbo, had stayed with them in a bivouac at 28,000 feet, but Genet did not survive until morning. The group was running low on bottled oxygen, and Schmatz died trying to get down to the South Col with Sungdare later that day.

In 1984, a Sherpa (Ang Dorje) and a Nepalese police inspector (Yogendra Bahadur Thapa) attempted to recover the body of Hannelore Schmatz, but both fell to their death during that recovery effort.

Victims (2): Hannelore Schmatz, Ray Genet

Hannelore Schmatz

Remains of Hannelore Schmatz [Courtesy: thepostmortempost.com]


In 1982, British duo Peter Boardman, a climbing instructor, and Joe Tasker, a former seminar student, died on the North East Ridge of the Mount Everest. They were two of the most promising alpinists world had ever seen. On May 17, the pair left their high camp on the Northeast Ridge and after 14 hours of climbing above 8,000 meters, were enveloped in darkness. At about 9 p.m. they disappeared. It was not clear what happened after that. In 1992, a team of Kazak climbers discovered Boardman's body, "sitting peacefully" near the base of the Second Pinnacle. Joe Tasker was never seen again.

Victims (2): Peter Boardman, Joe Tasker

Peter Boardman, Joe Tasker

The lower part of the Northeast Ridge from Advanced Base Camp on the North side. Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker went missing here in 1982 [Courtesy: markhorrell.com]

Chomolungma has lit a light within me...the summit of Everest can deliver you from the prison of ambition"
- Peter Boardman


Yasuo Kato, a 33-year-old climber from Japan, made the second winter ascent on December 27. He became the first non-Nepalese climber to summit Everest in three different seasons. He climbed alone from the south summit. On his descent, he and his climbing companion Toshiaki Kobayashi bivouacked below the south summit. They failed to return in bad weather.

Victims (2): Yasuo Kato, Toshiaki Kobayashi


Bulgarian Hristo Prodanov reached the summit of Everest on April 20 via west ridge. He summited alone and without the help of supplementary oxygen. He died on the way back.

Victim: Hristo Prodanov

Hristo Prodanov [Courtesy: alchetron.com]


Slovak climbers Zoltan DemjÁn and Jozef Psotka reached the summit of Mount Everest October 15, 1984. During the descent, they separated and Psotka accidentally fell 1,000 meters to his death at the age of 50.

Victim: Jozef Psotka

Jozef Psotka [Courtesy: dokweb.net]


Dimitar Ilievski-Murato from Macedonia reached the summit of Everest on May 10, 1989. He was the first climber from Macedonia, who scaled Mount Everest. He died during the decent.

Victim: Dimitar Ilievski-Murato


Avalanche Kills 5 Polish Climbers on Mt. Everest.

Victims (5):Miros?aw D?sal, Miros?aw Gardzielewski, Andrzej Heinrich, Wac?aw Otr?ba, Eugeniusz Chrobak


Pasang Lhamu Sherpa from Nepal reached the summit of Everest on April 22, 1993 via Southeast ridge. She was the first Nepalese woman to climb Mount Everest. She died while descending.c

Victim: Pasang Lhamu Sherpa

Pasang Lhamu Sherpa


Ref: Notable Expeditions


A total of 15 people perished during the spring 1996 climbing season on Everest.

Eight climbers died on Mount Everest during a storm on May 10, 1996 including the famous Rob Hall, Scott Fischer and the ITBP team. Rob and Scott were expedition leaders of their respective team. Three of the members of the six-man summit team from the Indo-Tibetan border police expedition died on the same day on northeast ridge. Probably the most famous of the bodies on Mt Everest, "green boots" is thought to be the body of Tsewang Paljor. "Green boots" body has become a landmark on the North East Ridge route to the summit.

Seven others have also died on the same season but not related to the storm or the events of the 10-11 May.

Tsewang Paljor [Courtesy: mpora.com]

Remains of Tsewang Paljor (Green Boots) [Courtesy: listverse.com]


Francys Arsentiev from the United States has reached the summit of Mount Everest without the help of supplementary oxygen on May 22, 1998. She was accompanied by her husband Sergei Arcentiev. They were separated during the descent and never found each other again. Later, some climbers found Francys on their way to the summit. She was found where she had been left the evening before. Ice axe and rope of Sergei Arsentiev were identified nearby, but he was nowhere to be found. Ian Woodall (UK) and Cathy O'Dowd (South Africa), who found Francys, called off their own summit attempts and tried to help Francys for more than an hour. But they were forced to abandon her due to her poor condition, perilous location and freezing weather. She died during the descent. Her corpse had the nickname "Sleeping Beauty". Sergei tried to find her husband but failed to do so. He fallen off a cliff and died. His body was found a year later.

Francys and Sergei Arsentiev [Courtesy: thepostmortempost.com]

Francys Arsentiev body (Sleeping Beauty) [Courtesy: mpora.com]

Woodall initiated and led an expedition in 2007, "The Tao of Everest". The purpose of that expedition was to bury the bodies of Francys Arsentiev and an unidentified climber ("Green Boots"), both of whom were plainly visible from the nearby climbing route. Francys Arsentiev's body was visible to climbers for nine years from her death, May 24, 1998 to May 23, 2007. On May 23, 2007, Woodall could locate her body and after a brief ritual, drop Arsentiev's body to a lower location on the face.

Since 2014, "Green Boots" has been missing, presumably removed or buried.

Francys Arsentiev body [Courtesy: mpora.com]


The renowned Babu Chiri Sherpa died on April 29, 2001. Chiri had signed on for his eleventh Everest expedition. He was planning another summit attempt. On April 29 while taking photographs near Camp II (6500m), Chiri fell into a crevasse, and died. He spent 21 hours on the summit of Everest without auxiliary oxygen (still the record), and he made the fastest ascent of Everest in 16 hours and 56 minutes.

Babu Chiri Sherpa


Marco Siffredi, the first ever person to descend Mount Everest on a snowboard in 2001 via the Norton Couloir, has disappeared after completing his second successful Everest summit, while attempting to snowboard the Hornbein Couloir.(September 8, 2002).

Marco Siffredi [Courtesy: Marco Siffredi]

Marco Siffredi on the summit of Everest [Courtesy: Marco Siffredi]


A 69-year-old pathologist from Alexandria, Virginia, reached the summit of Everest via the Southeast Ridge on May 2004. Nils Antezana had hired a guide named Gustavo Lisi to help him. But on the way down, Antezena became disoriented, perhaps due to the onset of cerebral edema. He collapsed near The Balcony, several hundred feet above the highest camp. Two sherpas attempted to revive him. Eventually they left the doctor in the snow and continued down to the camp. Lisi, who claimed he was "dead tired," failed to inform anyone else at Camp 4 of his client's condition. When climbers ascended the ridge in the next morning, Antezena had vanished. While the guide-client relationship on Everest has endured scrutiny and skepticism, this was one of the first instances where the accusations went beyond mere negligence to claim criminal behaviour. An investigation from the family finally dwindled away, Lisi's reputation was tarnished, and the story has shrouded a pall over commercial climbing on Everest ever since.

Victim: Nils Antezana


A lone British climber named David Sharp became the focus of one of the most intense controversies in the history of Everest in 2006. Early on the morning of May 14, Sharp was discovered in comatose in a small alcove high on the Northeast Ridge. He had been climbing solo. He was loosely affiliated to a low-budget expedition of independent mountaineers. Thus, no one reported him missing and it took several days before anyone could even figure out who the climber was. But his identity made no difference. Sharp could not survive, though estimated 40-plus climbers had passed him that day. Only a few of them had attempted to revive him.

A lot of questions resurfaced when a week later Australian climber Lincoln Hall was rescued under what appeared to be similar circumstances. Could more have been done to save Sharp? Should more have been done? Did other climbers have a moral obligation to help a stranger who was in the clutches of death? The media chaffed and roared, pointing fingers, levelling blame at the big-money expeditions that walked past the Briton. But like many things, the account was full of complicated details and deeper explanations. In the end, Sharp would become the fallen protagonist of one of Everest's most vivid and disturbing parables.

Victim: David Sharp

The body of David Sharp in Green Boot's Cave on Mount Everest [Courtesy: thepostmortempost.com]

David Sharp [Courtesy: thepostmortempost.com]


Takashi Ozaki, who is known for having made the first ascent of Mount Everest's north face died on May 12, 2011 at the age of 58, due to altitude sickness.


In 2011, the former Nepalese foreign minister, Shailendra Kumar Upadhyay, set out to become the oldest man to make it to the top of Everest. He was 82 years old. He made it to Camp I when he fell ill. While descending to Base Camp for medical care, he collapsed and died. His body was airlifted to the capital of Nepal, Kathmandu. He was trying to break the record held by a 76-year-old Nepalese man.

[Courtesy: listverse.com]


Climbing in the Mount Everest has become such an obsession for thousands of people that the mountain is now littered with junk left behind by the hundreds of expeditions who have come and gone over the decades. The litter contains used oxygen cylinders, trash, as well as human bodies. By the 2000s the trash problem had become so bad that expeditions were formed to try to remove some of it (as well as the bodies). But it was not until 2010 that first such expedition was initiated. In 2010 an expedition "Extreme Everest Expedition" was organised and lead by mountaineer Namgyal Sherpa. The purpose of that expedition was to remove the bodies and trash from the higher elevations of the mountain where it is most difficult to reach. The expedition was composed of all Sherpas.

The expedition removed 2,000 kg (4,000 pounds) of waste and two dead bodies. One of the bodies they did not recover and bring down was that of climbing expedition leader Rob Hall who died on Everest during the infamous 1996 Everest disaster. Hall's widow requested that his body remain on the mountain.

Namgyal Sherpa was a legend among Sherpas and the clients and climbers he guided on Everest. He worked his way up from porter, to cook, to starting his own company Mountain Consult and leading Sherpa teams on some of the biggest Everest expeditions. He himself summited Everest an amazing ten times. But his tenth summit was his last. On May 16, 2013 at 8,000 meters, he collapsed. He had complained of feeling ill and then pointed to his chest before he passed away.

Namgyal Sherpa [Courtesy: listverse.com]

'World's highest junkyard' - Barry Bishop


2014 Mount Everest avalanche kills sixteen people, making it the worst Everest disaster in history. As a result, most expeditions from the Nepalese side for the year were cancelled.


April 2015 Nepal earthquake triggered an avalanche on Mount Everest, killing at least 18 people at South Base Camp. An Indian Army mountaineering team reportedly recovered 18 bodies. 700 -1000 people were thought to be present on the mountain at the time. At least, 61 were injured and an unknown number were missing or trapped at camps at higher altitudes.


An 85 year old former British Gorkha died at the Everest base camp on May 3, 2017.Min Bahadur Sherchan first ascended Everest (8848 m) in 2008 at the age of 76, making him the oldest person in the world to successfully climb it. But in 2013, 80 year old Japanese climber Yuichiro Miura broke his record and claimed the title. Sherchan made further attempts in 2015 and 2016, but he missed both the attempts due to the Earthquake and some paperwork related issue.


Slovak climber Vladimír Štrba died on May 21, 2011 at the age of 48, due to Altitude sickness.


'Swiss Machine' Ueli Steck no more. An accident took place on Nuptse slope on April 30 morning while he was ascending solo. Stops the legend in his prime. Many climbers including Sherpas around Camp-2 saw him falling from Nuptse face from an elevation of approximately 7000m. The reason of the fall is however still unknown.

Ueli Steck [Courtesy: Damiano Levati]

The mountain is always stronger than you."
- Ueli Steck

Photo credit:
We have used some of the images taken from the following books:
[1] - The Call of Everest: The History, Science, and Future of the World's Tallest Peak by Conrad Anker
[2] - Everest: 50 Years On Top Of The World by George Band
[3] - Everest by Broughton Coburn
[4] - World Mountaineering by Mitchell Beazley
[5] - Everest: Summit of Achievement by Stephen Venables

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