Tyler Andrews Summits Everest in Under 10 Hours, Sets New Record

American athlete and mountaineer Tyler Andrews (36) has reportedly set a new speed ascent record on Mount Everest, reaching the summit from the South Base Camp in just 9 hours and 55 minutes. The feat surpasses the previous record of 10 hours 56 minutes, held since 2003 by Nepali climber Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa. Andrews completed the climb with supplemental oxygen support and assistance from Sherpa guides. He reached the summit on 28 May 2026 at approximately 5:06 am Nepal time.

Tyler Andrews

The ascent has also sparked debate within the mountaineering community regarding the role of supplemental oxygen in speed records. Some climbers and historians argue that climbs using supplemental oxygen and climbs without supplemental oxygen should be treated separately because oxygen significantly affects climbing performance at extreme altitude.

One of the most legendary Everest ascents without supplemental oxygen was achieved by Kilian Jornet in 2017. He climbed from the Tibetan side of Everest to the summit in about 26 hours without supplemental oxygen or fixed ropes. A few days later, Jornet completed another ascent from Advanced Base Camp in approximately 17 hours, approaching the long-standing speed benchmark for Everest climbs without supplemental oxygen of 16 hours 45 minutes set by Hans Kammerlander in 1996.

Kilian Jornet