Kolkata Climbers Scale 6184m Unnamed Peak in North Spiti by North Ridge

Two members of the Kolkata-based mountaineering club Baundule, Abhijit Banik and Nabarun Ghosh, successfully climbed an unnamed 6,184m peak in the Pakshi Lamur West Glacier region of North Spiti on 23 August, 2026, reaching the summit at around 1:30 pm in alpine style.

The four-member expedition team Abhijit Banik (leader), Nabarun Ghosh, Subhjit Som and Singasani Sai Kumar left Kolkata on 7th August. After crossing Parang La (5,575m), the team established Base Camp on the left bank of the Pare Chu River on 16th August.

Heavy rainfall subsequently delayed movement towards the upper reaches for three days. The team was eventually able to establish its Summit Camp at 5,555m on the Pakshi Lamur Glacier on 21st August.

Pakshi Lamur Glacier
 

Climbing the North Ridge

The climbers adopted an alpine-style approach, making their way across the Pakshi Lamur Glacier before reaching the North Col at 5,813m and proceeding towards the summit along the north ridge. The route involved negotiating several crevasses on the glacier as well as near the summit. Large cornices along the col and north ridge presented significant objective hazards during both ascent and descent. The cornices, however, remained stable during the climb.

Expedition leader Abhijit Banik played a key role in opening the route towards the summit. He and Nabarun Ghosh eventually reached the top at approximately 1:30 pm on 23rd August.

The team's cook, Janak Bahadur Shahi, also known as Jeevan, who had moderate previous climbing experience, expressed his interest in joining the summit attempt and successfully accompanied the two climbers to the top.

North ridge and summit of unnamed peak 6184m

Summit camp at 5555m

First Attempt from the North Ridge

Standing on near North Col, 5813 m

According to the information available to the expedition, this was the first attempt on the peak from the north ridge. The only other official record known to the team is a Japanese ascent in 2011 via the east ridge.

The successful climb also brought closure to a long-standing objective for Baundule. The club had previously attempted to gain access to the mountain in 2017 through Shilla Nullah and again in 2018 through Puri Lungpa Nullah, but geographical obstacles prevented the teams from reaching the peak on both occasions.

After two unsuccessful approaches and several years of waiting, the 2026 expedition finally found a viable line through the Pakshi Lamur Glacier and succeeded in reaching the summit by the north ridge.

On the summit

Expedition Summary

Expedition: Baundule North Spiti Expedition 2026
Peak: Unnamed Peak 6,184 m
Location: Pakshi Lamur West Glacier, North Spiti
Expedition Leader: Abhijit Banik
Departure from Kolkata: 7 August 2026
Base Camp: Left bank of Pare Chu River (16 August 2026)
Summit Camp: 5,555 m, Pakshi Lamur Glacier (21 August 2026)
 

Summit: Unnamed Peak (6,184 m)

Summit Date: 23 August 2026
Summit Time: Around 1:30 pm
Ascent Details: Alpine-style ascent via the North Col (5,813 m) and north ridge; first recorded attempt from the north ridge. The route involved glacier travel, crevasses, and significant cornice hazards.
Summit Members: Abhijit Banik, Nabarun Ghosh and Janak Bahadur Shahi (Jeevan).

Highlights

Route: Pakshi Lamur Glacier – North Col (5,813 m) – North Ridge – Summit
Climbing Style: Alpine style
Major Challenge: Glacier crevasses and extensive cornices along the North Col and North Ridge
Earlier Known Ascent: Japanese expedition, 2011, via the east ridge
Earlier Baundule Attempts: 2017 via Shilla Nullah and 2018 via Puri Lungpa Nullah; access to the peak could not be gained on either occasion.