Indian Climbers Make First Recorded Indian Ascent of Tharang II-6027m

Dream Wanderlust | Sept 27 , 2026

Indian climbers Subhajit Banerjee and Suresh Singh climbed Tharang II (6,027m) in Himachal Pradesh's Miyar Valley on 22nd September, 2026, making what available published records suggest is the first recorded Indian ascent of the peak.

Also known as Shailaputri, Tharang II is part of the Tharang Massif. Its south-western side presents predominantly rocky terrain, while its northern aspect is characterised by ice, snow seracs and a complex glacier system.

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The 10-member team began its approach from Manali on 11th September and reached Base Camp at Doksa (3,700 m) the same day after trekking from Khanjer, the last roadhead. Moving south along Uldhamphu Nala, the team established Camp 1 at 4,260 m, followed by Camp 2 at 4,900 m. Summit Camp was established below the South-West Face at 5,256 m on 19 September.

Tharang Massif

Tharang II Climbing Line

First Attempt Ends in Retreat

On 20 September, the team made its first attempt on the South-West Face. Loose rock and the risk of rockfall considerably slowed progress, and the climbers eventually retreated from approximately 5,958 m due to lack of time.

While the rest of the team descended to Camp 2 the following day, Subhajit Banerjee and Suresh Singh remained at Summit Camp for a second attempt.

Light and Fast to the Summit

The pair started again at 5:15 am on 22 September, carrying a 100-metre rope, rock protection, snow stakes and ice screws. After gaining height rapidly, they reached the shoulder below the central spur of the South-West Face at around 5,630 m and continued pitch by pitch. To reduce the danger of dislodging loose rock and maintain closer communication, they carried the rope in Kiwi coils through sections of the climb.

At around 11:30 am, the climbers reached the top of the spur and moved onto the West Face, where they put on crampons for the icy upper section. From there, Banerjee and Singh chose the West Ridge, climbing approximately 90 m of ice at around 70 degrees, followed by mixed climbing and dry-tooling. Heavy cornice formation along the ridge required careful route selection.

At 4:30 pm, the pair reached the summit. Their GPS recorded an altitude of 6,027 m, with the overall difficulty of the climb estimated at approximately AD.

They descended cautiously along the same line, including a rappel from a V-thread and two further long rappels lower down. Continuing by headlamp and moonlight, they finally reached Summit Camp at around 11:30 pm, completing an 18-hour summit push.

Available mountaineering records identify the first ascent of Tharang II on 1 October 2016 by British climber Charlie French and Swedish climber Anette Kinde via the Southwest Face, when the peak was named Shailaputri. No earlier Indian ascent has been found in the available published records, making the 22 September 2026 climb by Banerjee and Singh the first recorded Indian ascent. Their upper line also differed from the documented 2016 route, taking the West Ridge after reaching the upper spur. Significantly, the 2026 ascent was completed without guides, Sherpas, high-altitude porters, or fixed ropes, adding to the self-reliant character of the climb.

On the Summit

Expedition Summary

Peak: Tharang II / Shailaputri
Altitude: 6,027 m
Massif: Tharang Massif
Location: Miyar Valley, Lahaul and Spiti, Himachal Pradesh
Team Leader: Subhajit Banerjee
Base Camp: Doksa, 3,700 m
Camp 1: 4,260 m
Camp 2: 4,900 m
Summit Camp: 5,256 m

Summit — Tharang II (6,027 m)

Summit Date: 22 September 2026
Summit Time: 4:30 pm
Ascent Details: South-West Face to central spur, followed by the West Face and West Ridge; approximately 90 m of ice at around 70°, followed by mixed climbing and dry-tooling. Overall reported grade: AD.
Summit Members: Subhajit Banerjee and Suresh Singh.

Climbing Record

2012: A British expedition explored the Tharang area and made the first ascent of neighbouring Tharang I. The 6,000-metre peak to its southwest was referred to as Tharang II.
1 October 2016: Charlie French (UK) and Anette Kinde (Sweden) made the documented first ascent via the Southwest Face. Their GPS recorded the summit at 6,025 m, and the route was graded AD. The peak was named Shailaputri.
22 September 2026: Subhajit Banerjee and Suresh Singh made the first recorded Indian ascent, based on currently available published records, reaching the summit via the Southwest Face, upper West Face, and West Ridge.

Climb at a Glance

Ascent Status: First recorded Indian ascent, based on currently available published records
Climbing Style: Self-reliant ascent without guide, Sherpa or high-altitude porter support
Fixed Ropes: None
Reported Grade: AD
Key Difficulties: Loose rock, rockfall hazard, approximately 70° ice, mixed climbing, dry-tooling and heavy cornices
First Summit Attempt: 20 September; retreat from approximately 5,958 m
Successful Summit Push: 22 September, 5:15 am–11:30 pm, including descent to Summit Camp

Team Members: Subhajit Banerjee (Leader), Suresh Singh, Rency Thomas G, Mukesh Rana, Padamati Anvitha, Nandigama Rajkumar, Barmavath Mothikumar, Vislavath Bunny, Jayesh Dhirajlal Salla, and Mimraj Rana (Cook).

GPS Tracks