Anindya Mukherjee and Lakpa Sherpa Complete another First Ascent (6045m) in Stargyuk Valley, Document Remote Glacier System
In a remarkable continuation of fast and light yet exploratory mountaineering in the remote Stargyuk Valley of Ladakh, mountaineers Anindya Mukherjee and Lakpa (Phurtenji) Sherpa successfully made the first recorded ascent of a 6045-metre peak on 21 June 2025. The summit, located at 33°39'20.86" N, 77°37'16.85" E, lies in the Stargyuk Valley where the Ladakh Range meets the margins of the Changthang Plateau—a region previously undocumented in mountaineering records. The climb further establishes the Stargyuk region as one of the last unexplored playgrounds for alpinism in the Ladakh range of the Indian Himalaya.
The Route
The duo executed the climb in a swift, three-day, self-supported alpine-style push.
- Day 1 (19 June): They drove from Leh to Lato village (4000m), the roadhead, and then hiked up to an altitude of 4919 metres, where they established their initial camp.
- Day 2 (20 June): The climbers advanced further and established a high camp at approximately 5377 metres, inside a glaciated horseshoe basin that sits below the summit massif.
- Day 3 (21 June): In the early morning, they began their summit push via a narrow snow couloir and reached the top of the 6045-metre peak around 11:30 AM. The route was climbed free, except for the final 100 vertical metres on the summit ridge, which featured unstable snow and cornices requiring extra caution. After summiting, the duo descended to their base, hiked back to Lato, and drove straight to Leh the same evening.
The 350m couloir on SE face of peak 6045m
Anindya on the lower part of the couloir
The entire climb from the roadhead covered roughly 14 kilometres of horizontal distance with an elevation gain of over 2045 metres. The attached elevation profile (from their base to the summit) underscores the sustained nature of the ascent, with significant gradients and steep sections near the summit marked in red—reflecting the increased technical demand in the upper reaches.
This successful climb follows a previous expedition in late May, when a four-member team from West Bengal entered the Stargyuk Valley for the first time and climbed a 5987-metre peak at the head of the South Stargyuk Glacier. That team also documented a large moraine-dammed glacial lake, highlighting the presence of a potential GLOF (Glacial Lake Outburst Flood) hazard in this unmonitored sector of Ladakh.
Mukherjee, who was part of both ascents, remarked: “The glaciers here are surprisingly expansive and healthy—at least to a lay observer—when compared to those in the neighbouring Markha Valley. Stargyuk is clearly a vital region for future glaciological and environmental studies.”
These two back-to-back exploratory ascents not only revive the spirit of classical Himalayan mountaineering but also underscore the urgency of documenting fragile and remote high-altitude regions in the face of accelerating climate change.
Climbers: Anindya Mukherjee, Lakpa (Phurtenji) Sherpa
Summit Date: 21 June 2025, ~11:30 AM
Peak Altitude: 6045 metres, 33° 39' 20.86" N, 77° 37' 16.85" E
Route: East face to Northeast Ridge
Key Features: 350-metre snow and ice couloir (45–55° gradient) leading to a sharp, corniced summit ridge
Grade: Alpine D (Difficile) – steep snow/ice, exposed ridge, objective hazards present.
Moraine dammed Glacial Lake of North Stargyuk Glacier as seen on 29 May 2025. Photo Courtesy: Ananda Mukherjee
Looking towards the summit. The NE ridge in front
Nearing the summit ridge and the top of the couloir route
Elevation Profile
