Alex Txikon returns to Everest this Winter without supplemental oxygen

Renowned Spanish Alpinist Alex Txikon (37) is all set to climb Everest this Winter without supplemental oxygen from Nepal Side. Best known for his Winter expeditions on eight-thousanders, Alex has previously attempted Everest twice, having reached a maximum elevation of near 8000m; in the Winter of 2016-17 and 2017-18.

Earlier this year, he also had attempted K2 in Winter and reached up to approximately 7300m. "We prefer to focus on Everest not because it's the tallest but because what happens there in Winter," Alex told Dream Wanderlust in an earlier interview.

In a recent press release, Alex expresses his plan to climb Ama Dablam as an acclimatisation climb beforehand, followed by his third attempt to Everest Winter Expedition likely to begin in the month of January 2020.

At the age of 21, in 2003, Alex summited his first eight-thousander - Broad Peak (8051m) in Summer. The next year, in 2004, he summited Makalu and Cho Oyu in Spring and Autumn respectively. In 2005, he joined 'Al Filo De Lo Impossible' - a Spanish TV programme to work as a high altitude cinematographer to assist Edurne Pasaban on her '14x8000' project. Alex, afterwards, participated in several expeditions and completed his another four eight-thousanders (Shishapangma, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu and Annapurna) within 2010. In the Summer of 2011, he summited Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II, and in Spring 2013, Lhotse.

In 2011, he started another of his new era of climbing, for which he is now best known for - the Winter Expeditions. Since then he participated in eight Winter expeditions in the Himalayas and Karakorams. He attempted Gasherbrum I in both Winters of 2013 and 2014, Nanga Parbat in Winter 2014-15, Everest in Winter 2016-17 and Winter 2017-18, and K2 in Winter 2018-19. In 2013, he made the first ascent of Laila Peak (Pakistan) in Winter. Though these Winter expeditions earned him the reputation of one of the greatest Winter Specialists from the esteemed mountaineering fraternity, his first-ever ascent of Nanga Parbat in the Winter of 2015-16 without supplemental oxygen, made him one of the undisputable game-changers in his area of expertise. He managed to achieve this incredible feat by Kinshofer route with Muhammad Ali Sadpara and Simone Moro.

His all Winter Expeditions in the Himalayas and Karakorams:

2011 - Gasherbrum I (8080m):
Alex made the first Winter attempt of Gasherbrum I by a partially new route with Louis Rousseau and Gerfried Göschl. The expedition ended at 7050m.

2012 - Gasherbrum I (8080m):
A 7-member International team led by Gerfried Göschl, summit team (Gerfried Göschl, Cedric Hählen and Nisar Hussain) reached around 7700m by a new route and disappeared. Alex reached approximately at 6800m.

2013 - Laila Peak (6096m):
Alex made the first Winter ascent of Laila Peak with José Fernández by the West Face without supplemental oxygen.

2014-15 - Nanga Parbat (8126m):
Alex led a 3-member International team (Alex himself with Muhammad Ali Sadpara and Daniele Nardi) by Kinshofer route. The expedition ended at 7850m.

2015-16 - Nanga Parbat (8126m):
Alex made the first Winter ascent of Nanga Parbat by Kinshofer route with Muhammad Ali Sadpara and Simone Moro without supplemental oxygen.

2016-17 - Everest (8848m):
Alex led a 2-member Spanish team (Alex himself with Carlos Rubio) by the South Col of Everest. The expedition ended at 8000m.

2017-18 - Pumori (7161m):
Alex made Winter ascent of Pumori with Muhammad Ali Sadpara and two Sherpas - Nuri and Temba Bhote without supplemental oxygen. They had done it as a part of their preparation for Everest.

2017-18 - Everest (8848m):
Alex attempted Everest with Muhammad Ali Sadpara by the South Col. The expedition ended at 7900m.

2018-19 - K2 (8611m):
Alex led a Spanish-Galician team to attempt K2 in Winter. The expedition ended approximately at 7300m.

Photo Courtesy: Alex Txikon