Gautam Dutta

Gautam Dutta

Mountaineer

gautamdatta@hotmail.com
Gautam Dutta is one of those rare Indian mountaineers who in the eighties and the early nineties, had not only set the trend of self-supported, alpine style ascents in remote ranges of the Himalayas, but also climbed hard, looking for aesthetically beautiful lines both on rocks and ice. As a result, he has quite a few first ascents along with numerous daring attempts to his credit (Total 33 expeditions - to different Himalayan peaks and one Motorbike expedition achieving LIMCA Book of record's accreditation-2001). In 1981, in a small party of three under the leadership of legendary Bidyut Sarkar (Chhorda), he led climbs to three 22000 ft peaks including Maiktoli, Devtoli purely in Alpine style, completely through a new untrodden challenging route, in its pioneering stage in the Himalayas. In 1986 led a climb to Chirbas(first ascent); led a climb along SW face of Hanuman Tibba and spent an open air night standing at 19400 ft on the wall with an aim to make the summit at sunrise on next morning, and also first Indian to make summit of Mukherbeh with a benightment under open sky, both in 1987; made the first ascent of Mulkila(M-4), leading climb through a deadly wall and also sumitted M-5, both in 1988. He had been an important part in four pre-Everest expeditions and two Everest expeditions. In 1991, he was one of the four Indian climbers that climbed the dreaded Great Couloir route of mount Everest via it's north face reaching 7800 m; also led climb up to 8200m along North col-NE ridge route in 1993, both without any sherpa support or so. His so many other climbs, namely to Jogin-I, Jogin-II(First Ascent-1980), Kabrudome (First Ascent-1982), Jaonli, Satopanth, Srikailash, Nandaghunti east face, Tirsuli west, Leo Pargil etc, to mention a few, and his spirit of adventure is still alive in a handful of alpinists in India. He had been a proficient Rock-climber, led and opened a number of new routes, and a key person in opening a few Rock-climbing training sites in Bengal and Odisha. Beside all, he is a flautist, an ardent student of Indian classical music, though plays modern songs as well when in mood! Was a student at Jadavpur University, passed BME with "Best All Rounder" Gold medal (1982); and a M.Tech in Machine-design. We are greatly delighted and proud to publish his philosophy, ethics about climbing, thoughts on adventure and society..