New route on Mt. Gangstang (Indian Himalaya) for Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham

thebmc.co.uk | July 4 , 2016

Brief Climbing History:
First ascent 1945: (south-west ridge )First climb was reported by Italians in 1945. Approaching from the east via the Gangstang Glacier

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Second ascent 1973: (south-west ridge ) Indian team from West Bengal led by Subhash Roy reached the summit on 5th September (HJ1974)

2001: (East ridge) Japanese team approaching the peak via the glacier below the north face, and madefirst ascent of the snowy east ridge

2007: Martin Moran made the first ascent of what he called Thirot Shivling (5,324m), but which was later renamed Neelkantha.

Moran and other team members then climbed a partial new route on the main peak by ascending a 600m curving snow couloir on the west face to reach the crest of the southwest ridge at around 5,600m.

2016: (north-west ridge) Bass and Buckingham had originally hoped to try the impressive north face, but the stability of a serac barrier on the wall, uncertainty from their viewpoint as to the exact location of the crest of the upper east ridge, and a suspicion that the upper slopes were formed of undercut slab, convinced them that the ridge was the best option. They could make it to the summit and descended via south-west ridge.

Summary:
In a five day trip from Base Camp, Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham ascended the difficult North-west ridge of Gangstang in the Indian Himalayas. Gangstang is a beautiful pyramid shaped mountain in the state of Himachal Pradesh lying north of river Chandra in Lahaul. It was first ascended by Italians in 1945,who approached the summit from the east via the South-west ridge. Since then the mountains have been climbed sporadically, mostly by Indians through the South West ridge.In 2007 Martin Moran made the first ascent of what he called Thirot Shivling(5.32m). They climbed a new route on the main peak by ascending 600m to reach the crest of the South West ridge (5600m).Team Bass and Buckingham.The team reached base camp. Their first night was spent at 5000m below the north face and the next day they climbed a couloir onto the North west ridge. From here it was rock climbing all the way to the summit. The weather deteriorated by the time they had reached 6000m with snowfall and strengthening winds blowing directly up the west face. Little time was spent in the cold and on the summit before locating the South West ridge and beginning the descent.

Full Report: https://goo.gl/uUyYl1
Pic: Astride the northwest ridge of Gangstang by Guy Buckingham