Meet Boyan Petrov, who plans to summit Everest and Shishapangma this spring

Dream Wanderlust | Apr 9 , 2018


Boyan Petrov (45), Bulgarian mountaineer, zoologist, researcher, author has also been a part of more than 25 research-mountaineering expeditions either in the capacity of a leader or as a team member. He has already summited 10 eight-thousanders without oxygen. As reported by his official website, Boyan will attempt Everest from Tibet side and Shishapangma this spring. He will also  try to summit Cho Oyu in coming autumn season.

At the age of 28, in 2001, he made his first attempt on an eight-thousander, Broad Peak. In 2009 he made his first eight-thousander summit on Gasherbrum I, 8 years after his first eight-thousander attempt on Broad Peak. In 2014, he summited Broad Peak without supplemental oxygen, 13 years after his first attempt on the mountain. He summited 4 eight-thousanders as the first Bulgarian till date.

Boyan Petrov

Some of His Notable Eight-thousanders Expeditions:

2001 - Broad Peak (8051m) in Summer:
A 15 members Bulgarian National team, led by Nikolay Petkov via normal route, Boyan reached up to 7300m.

2005 - K2 (8611m) in Summer:
A 7 members Polish-Bulgarian team, led by Anna Czerwinska via Abruzzi Spur, Boyan reached up to 8200m.

2009 - Gasherbrum I (8080m) in Summer:
A 4 members Bulgarian team, led by Nikolay Petkov via normal route. Boyan summited with Doychin Boyanov, Nikolay Petkov, Nikolay Vulkov without supplemental oxygen. It was the first Bulgarian summit on Gasherbrum I.

2009 - Gasherbrum II (8035m) in Summer:
Boyan attempted solo on the mountain and reached up to 8030m via normal route.

2014 - Kangchenjunga (8586m) in Spring:
Boyan summited without supplemental oxygen via SW Face. It was the first Bulgarian summit on Kangchenjunga.

2014 - Broad Peak (8051m) in Summer:
Boyan summited with Ivan Tomov without supplemental oxygen via normal route.

2014 - K2 (8611m) in Summer:
Boyan summited without supplemental oxygen via Abruzzi Spur. It was the first Bulgarian summit on K2.

2015 - Manaslu (8163m) in Autumn:
A 8 members International team named "Seven Summit Treks Manaslu Expedition 2015", led by Arnold Coster via NE Face. Boyan summited without supplemental oxygen. It was the first Bulgarian summit on Manaslu.

2016 - Annapurna (8091m) in Spring:
A 14 members International team named "Seven Summit Treks Annapurna Expedition 2016", led by Mario Vielmo via N Face. Boyan summited without supplemental oxygen.

2016 - Makalu (8485m) in Spring:
A 21 members International team named "Seven Summit Treks Makalu Expedition 2016", led by Ferran Latorre via Makalu La-NW Ridge. Boyan summited without supplemental oxygen.

2016 - Nanga Parbat (8126m) in Summer:
Boyan summited with Spaniard Ferran Latorre and Frenchman Hélias Millerioux without supplemental oxygen via Kinshofer route.

2017 - Gasherbrum II (8035m) in Summer:
Boyan summited without supplemental oxygen via normal route.

2017 - Dhaulagiri (8167m) in Autumn:
Boyan summited without supplemental oxygen via NE Face.

Amazing Facts About Him:

1. Boyan Petrov is a cancer survivor and a diabetic.

2. Boyan, at 28, made his first eight-thousander attempt in 2001 on Broad Peak. He reached up to 7300m.

3. At the age of 36, in 2009, he made his first eight-thousander summit on Gasherbrum I, 8 years after his first attempt on Broad Peak.

4. At the age of 41, in 2014, he summited Broad Peak without supplemental oxygen, 13 years after his first attempt on the mountain.

5. He has summited 4 eight-thousanders as the first Bulgarian till date
2009 - Gasherbrum I
2014 - Kangchenjunga
2014 - K2
2015 - Manaslu

6. He summited 3 eight-thousanders in one calender year, twice. He summited 3 eight-thousanders, Kangchenjunga, Broad Peak and K2 in 2014 and Annapurna, Makalu and Nanga Parbat in 2016. On both the occasions he has achieved this feat within 100 days.

7. In 2014, he summited Broad Peak and K2 within 8 days.

Photo Courtesy: Boyan Petrov

This news was revised on 14-04-2018

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