Climbing updates on 8 Thousanders (Autumn 2016)

Highlights | Eight-thousanders - Autumn 2016
Total Summits: Manaslu - 150+; Cho Oyu - 20+
Total Deaths (1): Shishapangma (1)

- Adrian Ballinger and Emily Harrington reached the summit of Cho Oyu in record time door to door (Tahoe).
- Nobukazu Kuriki has ended Everest summit push somewhere between 6800m and 7400m on the North Face due to "condition of the snow and physical condition".
- Mariano Galvan has been turned back 300m short of summit of Manaslu via new route (via a spur on the left of Urubko/Samoilov''s 2006 direct line). Later the Argentinian climber summited Manaslu with Alberto Zerain via normal route.
- German climber Billi Bierling summited Cho Oyu without supplemental O2.
- Aussie mountaineer Rolfe Oostra summited Cho Oyu twice in 24 hours.
- Canadian climber Christopher Manning summited Manaslu without oxygen & sherpa support.
- Arjun Vajpai (23) became the youngest mountaineer to summit Cho Oyu.
- After the death of a sherpa (Pemba Sherpa - caught in an avalanche), the RMI Expeditions team abandon Shishapangma expedition from C2.
- Altitude Junkies team encountered around 3 feet deep snow near C2 and cancelled the Dhaulagiri expedition.
- Dipankar Ghosh was the only mountaineer from India this season who summited Mt. Manaslu.
- Oscar Cadiach cancelled his expedition to Broad Peak because of the non-surety of liaison officer availability for the expedition.
- Kilian Jornet cancelled the speed climb on Everest due to the weather condition.

5th October, 2016 | Update from Adrian Ballinger #ChoNoFilter

5th October, 2016 | Update from 2x14x8000

4th October, 2016 | Update from 2x14x8000

4th October, 2016 | Update from Emily Harrington #ChoNoFilter

4th October, 2016 | Update from Adrian Ballinger #ChoNoFilter

4th October, 2016 | Update from Adrian Ballinger #ChoNoFilter

4th October, 2016

4th October, 2016 | Update from Arjun Vajpai

4th October, 2016 | Update from Arjun Vajpai

3rd October, 2016 | Update from 2x14x8000

3rd October, 2016 | Update from 2x14x8000

3rd October, 2016 | Christopher Manning summited Manaslu without oxygen & sherpa support
"Sorry my GPS died so I haven''t been able to update for awhile. I summited Manaslu (8,163m), the 8th highest mountain in the world on September 30th at 6:35am without oxygen or Sherpa support. I''ll post summit pictures shortly! I''m still hiking out of here so it might take awhile before I find internet again. Thanks for the support!"

Source: facebook.com/discosquirrel

3rd October, 2016 | Update from Emily Harrington #ChoNoFilter

3rd October, 2016 | Update from Adrian Ballinger #ChoNoFilter

3rd October, 2016 | Update from Oscar Cadiach
Oscar Cadiach has been forced to cancel at the last minute his expedition to Broad Peak because of the non-surety of liaison officer availability for the expedition.

Source: facebook.com/oscarcadiach

3rd October, 2016 | Update from Arjun Vajpai

3rd October, 2016 | Update from Arjun Vajpai

2nd October, 2016 | Update from Adrian Ballinger #ChoNoFilter

2nd October, 2016 | Update from Emily Harrington #ChoNoFilter

2nd October, 2016 | Update from Emily Harrington #ChoNoFilter

2nd October, 2016 | Aussie Mountaineer Rolfe Oostra climbs Mt Cho-Oyu twice in 24 hours
Australian climber Rolfe Oostra, has successfully climbed Mt Cho-Oyu (8,201 m) on Friday and Saturday, according to Marni Oostra, Managing Director at 360 Expeditions.
Rolfe, successfully climbed the peak along with his team members Arthur and Kam, on Friday at 11:00 am.But, it was not over for him. He has made the second summit on Saturday morning along with two climbers Charlene and Pa Dawa Sherpa.

Source: thehimalayantimes.com

2nd October, 2016 | Update from RMI Expeditions
"Our team has safely reached Base Camp. They will spend two nights there before descending to Driver''s Camp on Tuesday, October 4th to meet their vehicles and begin the two day drive back to Lhasa. From there they will take a flight to Kathmandu. They intend to spend a few days in Kathmandu to honor their friend and fellow climber. Team members will then depart Kathmandu to make their way back to family and friends."

Source: rmiguides.com

2nd October, 2016

2nd October, 2016 | Update from Arjun Vajpai

2nd October, 2016 | Update from Saulius Damulevičius
"Descended straight to Samagaon! Now I see the real price I paid for the Mountain: muscle loss, extreme throat-ache, never ending hunger... Time to go home!"

Source: facebook.com/horizontas

1st October, 2016 | We started our summit push
"We started our summit push and were at Camp 1. We then had very deep and unexpected snow at Camp 2, 3 feet to be exact. This meant we had to abort our October 1 summit push. All the team members are ok but disappointed. There is the possibility of new snow coming, so we may have missed our summit window. The team is now back in base camp contemplating their next move."

Source: altitudejunkies.com

1st October, 2016 | Update from Adrian Ballinger and Emily Harrington

1st October, 2016 | Update from Dipankar Ghosh

1st October, 2016 | Update from Alberto Zerain
Mariano Galvan has been turned back 300m short of summit of Manaslu via new route.

1st October, 2016 | Update from Alberto Zerain

1st October, 2016 | Update from Alberto Zerain

1st October, 2016 | Update from Saulius Damulevičius
"Despite the terribly cold (but short) night at C4, WE REACHED THE SUMMIT OF MANASLU TODAY!!! I fell asleep 3x writting this message. All safe in C3 now!"

Source: facebook.com/horizontas

1st October, 2016 | Update from Mingma Sherpa

1st October, 2016 | Update from Nobukazu Kuriki
"Today is 6700 meters above sea level to the point.
Blue ice came out of the snow but still unstable."

Source: facebook.com/kurikiyama

1st October, 2016 | Update from Billi Bierling

1st October, 2016 | Update from Arjun Vajpai

1st October, 2016 | Update from RMI Expeditions
"It has been a difficult few days for our team members. Today all climbers descended safely to Depot Camp (Advanced Base Camp) where they will spend the night. They plan to descend to Base Camp tomorrow."

Source: rmiguides.com

1st October, 2016 | Update from Arjun Vajpai

30th September, 2016 | Update from RMI Expeditions
"We received very sad news earlier today. One of the Sherpa team members was caught in an avalanche this morning and has died. The rest of the team are safe. All team members are spending the night at Camp 2 and will be descending in the morning. The accident occurred below Camp 3 as a Sherpa team was moving up. This is all the information we have at this time. We will provide updates as we get information from the team."

Source: rmiguides.com

30th September, 2016 | Update from Oscar Cadiach
"Thank you colleagues! And also to support service for Charles in dish in the broad peak. I''ll take on your advice, my friend! Always up!"

30th September, 2016 | Update from Billi Bierling

30th September, 2016 | Update from Billi Bierling

30th September, 2016 | Update from Arjun Vajpai

30th September, 2016 | Update from Emily Harrington #ChoNoFilter

30th September, 2016 | Update from Adrian Ballinger #ChoNoFilter

30th September, 2016 | Update from Dan Mazur
"GUESS WHAT? WE ARE ON SUMMIT!
All back in C2 safely. Fortunate to summit Cho Oyu on such a blue bird day. Sherpas fixed 600 metre rope right up to the last!"

Source: summitclimb.com

30th September, 2016 | Mt. Manaslu Summit!!!

30th September, 2016 | Update from Arnold Coster
"Team is back in BC 25hr after leaving C3 for summitpush. Time to celerbrate!"

Source: facebook.com/ArnoldCoster

30th September, 2016 | Update from Alberto Zerain

30th September, 2016 | Alberto Zerain - Manaslu Summit via normal route
Alberto Zerain strikes at the top of the Mt. Manaslu!!!

Source: facebook.com/2x14x8000

30th September, 2016 | Update from Arnold Coster
"Ton turned around, he is ok in C3. Rest team summited 6-7am!"

Source: facebook.com/ArnoldCoster

30th September, 2016 | Update from Mingma Sherpa
"Now we are on the summit of Mt. Manaslu. All our team member reached safely here."

Source: facebook.com/climbermingma | Photo Courtesy: facebook.com/climbermingma

30th September, 2016 | Update from Adrian Ballinger #ChoNoFilter

30th September, 2016 | Update from Emily Harrington #ChoNoFilter

30th September, 2016 | Update from Saulius Damulevičius
"C4. Going for the summit in one hour!"

Source: facebook.com/horizontas

29th September, 2016 | Update from Billi Bierling

29th September, 2016 | Update from Nobukazu Kuriki
Camp 2 - A large amount of deep unstable snow is there...still avalanche occurred frequently.

29th September, 2016 | Update from Arnold Coster
"Team left C3 for summit push. We hope to summit tom. early morning"

Source: facebook.com/ArnoldCoster

29th September, 2016 | Update from Mingma Sherpa
"Now we are at manaslu camp4. Weather is clear but too much windy. If all go ok then more than 120 climbers will reach summit tommorrom morning"

Source: facebook.com/climbermingma

29th September, 2016 | Update from Adrian Ballinger #ChoNoFilter

29th September, 2016 | Update from Emily Harrington #ChoNoFilter

29th September, 2016 | Update from Arjun Vajpai
"The skies are still not clear. The winds are still strong. The few members from our team who had attempted to go higher up, have also been forced to return back to ABC and join us in our wait for a window with clear weather."

Source: instagram.com/arjunvajpai

29th September, 2016 | Update from Dan Mazur
"This might seem hard to believe given recent weather patterns, but our team is now comfy in Camp 3 and heading for summit in 5 hours
Sunrise over Mt Shishapangma, seen from here in Cho Oyu''s Camp 2. Its a bit cloudy, windy. Hope weather good for C3 + 2nite summit!"

Source: summitclimb.com

29th September, 2016 | Update from Saulius Damulevičius
"Reached C3 (6850 m) today along with several other expeditions. Heavy snow showers all night long. Not sure if we can make it to C4 tomorrow..."

Source: facebook.com/horizontas

28th September, 2016 | Update from Adrian Ballinger #ChoNoFilter

28th September, 2016 | Update from Billi Bierling

28th September, 2016 | Alberto Zerain attempt Manaslu via the normal route
Mariano Galvan wanted to try to complete the route they were opening together, but Alberto Zerain considered it too risky and decided to return to base. Soon it will try the normal way.
Last night when Mariano Galvan Alberto Zerain and were preparing to bivouac near the disappeared C2, the latter changed his mind and their paths split.

Source: 2x14x8000.com | Photo Courtesy: 2x14x8000.com

28th September, 2016 | Update from Arnold Coster
"Team is in C3 6845m. Tom. we push C4 if weather is good."

Source: facebook.com/ArnoldCoster

28th September, 2016 | Update from Nobukazu Kuriki

28th September, 2016 | Update from Emily Harrington #ChoNoFilter

28th September, 2016 | Update from Arjun Vajpai

28th September, 2016 | Update from RMI Expeditions

28th September, 2016 | Update from Dan Mazur
"Morning clouds part: reveal frosty summit. We pack up. Suddenly a huge black cloud rises, spewing snow, wind. Now we''re stuck in C2.
A morning snow storm has descended upon camp 2. We hope it will lift, allowing us to move up to camp 3. Fingers crossed!"

Source: summitclimb.com

27th September, 2016 | Update from Adrian Ballinger #ChoNoFilter

27th September, 2016 | Update from Dan Mazur
"Good evening from SummitClimb camp 2 @ 7140m / 23,400ft. Now comfortable in tents, warm bags, sunset on clouds & peaks far below."

Source: summitclimb.com

27th September, 2016 | Update from Billi Bierling

27th September, 2016 | Update from Alberto Zerain

27th September, 2016 | Update from Arnold Coster
"Team is back in C1. Good weather, will push to C3 tom."

Source: facebook.com/ArnoldCoster

27th September, 2016 | Update from Saulius Damulevičius
"After a lot of downtime Team Manaslu (Dina, Igor, Natalia & myself) is on the summit push! Ascent is planned for 30/9. Now shivering in my sleeping bag in C2."

Source: facebook.com/horizontas

27th September, 2016 | Update from Nobukazu Kuriki
"Today I was about to climb to an altitude of 7,000m, but I have a fever. I didn''t want force myself on, so I decided to go back.
Arterial oxygen saturation (SpO2) is around 90%, and my body is getting acclimatized to the altitude. I think I can climb without oxygen.
I will go back to Advanced Base Camp once, and I will try again when I get over my fever.
Here everything is covered by white snow."

Source: facebook.com/kurikiyama

27th September, 2016 | Update from Nobukazu Kuriki

27th September, 2016 | Update from Emily Harrington #ChoNoFilter

27th September, 2016 | Update from Adrian Ballinger #ChoNoFilter

27th September, 2016 | Update from Arjun Vajpai
"Even though the weather isn''t very supportive, quiet a few people have gone up the mountain. My team and myself have chosen to stay back at ABC a while longer and wait for the skies to clear up."

Source: instagram.com/arjunvajpai

27th September, 2016 | 4 days of pretty bad weather
"There has been 4 days of pretty bad weather, but we are letting the snow consolidate and will continue on with our summit plans. Normally, most teams are pretty clandestine about summit pushes, but since we are the only ones on the peak, here are the tentative plans.... weather dependent. Right now, we are looking at going to Camp 1 on the 28th, Camp 2 on the 29th, Camp 3 on the 30th and October 1st for the summit. We are not sure how well the sat phone will work, so we will keep you posted as per our technology allows."

Source: altitudejunkies.com

26th September, 2016 | Update from Billi Bierling

26th September, 2016 | Update from Nobukazu Kuriki
"Today I passed through a heavily crevassed zone, and came out of it right under Mount Everest.
I was going to climb the Lho La Face to acclimatize to the altitude, but it seems that there has been an avalanche, so I have changed my route.
From tomorrow, I''m going to check the condition and the points where avalanches may occur on the Great Couloir (Norton Couloir) and Hornbein Couloir, as I climb up from below."

26th September, 2016 | Update from Nobukazu Kuriki
This three-day, I was waiting for good weather. There are too much snowfall due to monsoon...The weather become unstable today. A lot of snow stuck in the north of Everest.

Source: facebook.com/kurikiyama | Photo Courtesy: Nobukaju Kuriki

26th September, 2016 | Update from Adrian Ballinger #ChoNoFilter

26th September, 2016 | Update from Dan Mazur
"Snowfall in basecamp, but Sherpas radio: they fixed rope into Camp 3 area. Online we find 2 forecasts: 5 clear days coming: Summit"

Source: summitclimb.com

25th September, 2016 | Update from Emily Harrington #ChoNoFilter

25th September, 2016 | Update from Dan Mazur
"Today''s weather was forecast to be some of September''s worst. Bad but not so bad. Tomorrow''s forecast sunny!!!"

Source: summitclimb.com

25th September, 2016 | Update from Saulius Damulevičius
"It''s been snowing ever since we got back to BC on 21/9. I was considering quitting expe, but weather seems to be changing now. Celebrated Bday at BC today!"

Source: facebook.com/horizontas

24th September, 2016 | Update from Arnold Coster

24th September, 2016 | Update from Nobukazu Kuriki
There has been white out in the storm and snow in the morning...Nothing visible...It started towards the camp 3 near the 7000m we stay near trims of the wall today. The weather forecast was going to be sunny today, but it is quite a difficult weather...Also outside of the tent there is strong wind and snow, it is pure white. From the Everest direction I hear sound avalanche occurs occasionally.

Source: facebook.com/kurikiyama

24th September, 2016 | Update from Emily Harrington #ChoNoFilter

24th September, 2016 | Update from Dan Mazur

24th September, 2016 | Update from Billi Bierling

23rd September, 2016 | Update from Emily Harrington #ChoNoFilter

23rd September, 2016 | Update from Adrian Ballinger #ChoNoFilter

23rd September, 2016 | Update from Dan Mazur
"Tossing and turning in the sleeping bag all night. Cant sleep in anticipation. Our push for the summit begins in the morning."

Source: summitclimb.com

23rd September, 2016 | Update from Nobukazu Kuriki

23rd September, 2016 | Update from Oscar Cadiach
"Together we will make the summit of Broad Peak! We have the crowdfunding on! You are very great! Thank you for sharing it! Always up!"

23rd September, 2016 | Update from Dipankar Ghosh

23rd September, 2016 | Update from Arjun Vajpai

22nd September, 2016 | Update from Nobukazu Kuriki
"I was waiting at the Advanced Base Camp for two days, but today I left for Lho La (7,300m) to acclimatize to the altitude, and I walked in the moraine for 4 hours.
Today I will set up camp near the threshold of the glacier.
Actually, I wanted to go a bit further, but Lho La was shrouded in cloud, and it''s dangerous to walk in a crevasse zone with bad visibility, so I will wait here.
If everything goes well, tomorrow I will climb Lho La."

Source: facebook.com/kurikiyama | Photo Courtesy: Nobukaju Kuriki

21st September, 2016 | Update from RMI Expeditions

22nd September, 2016 | Update from Nobukazu Kuriki
"Calm snow advanced base camp, which lasted from yesterday (ABC), you will see the Everest snow dancing in the strong wind...This year''s autumn Everest is sticking snow than usual, is quite struggled likely."

Source: facebook.com/kurikiyama

22nd September, 2016 | Update from Nobukazu Kuriki
"Finally, tomorrow I''m going to start my training to acclimatize to the altitude.
Today we did a ceremony called ''Puja'' to pray for the safety of this attempt.
The weather around the Advanced Base Camp has suddenly changed now, so I''m waiting for the right moment to move out.
If the weather conditions are stable tomorrow morning, I will set off."

Source: facebook.com/kurikiyama | Photo Courtesy: Nobukaju Kuriki

22nd September, 2016 | Update from Adrian Ballinger #ChoNoFilter

22nd September, 2016 | Update from Billi Bierling

22nd September, 2016 | Update from Arjun Vajpai

22nd September, 2016 | Update from Oscar Cadiach
"Raffa Welcome! We make a great team on Broad Peak! Always up!"

21st September, 2016 | Update from Adrian Ballinger #ChoNoFilter

21st September, 2016 | Update from Arjun Vajpai

21st September, 2016 | Update from Alberto Zerain
In just three days Alberto and Mariano have opened 1,700 meters of track, leaving only 350 meters fixed rope in the most delicate steps and two high camps mounted.
After mounting the camp II at 6,400 meters, both climbers have fallen to the base to rest, waiting for a good opportunity to try the top.

Source: 2x14x8000.com | Photo Courtesy: 2x14x8000.com

21st September, 2016 | Update from Dan Mazur
"Thick cloud clokes camp in fog. Waiting climbers spirits hold, zipped into tents. Sherpas summit rope plans unfold. Time will tell."

Source: summitclimb.com

21st September, 2016 | Update from RMI Expeditions

20th September, 2016 | Everyone is doing well and looking forward to a summit push
"The Sherpas tried to fix the ropes up to Camp 3, but due to such a dry season, there are several large crevasses which have opened up. There is little snow and the glacier is melting. We have 6 ladders coming from Kathmandu and our porters will have to bring them up from Marpha."

Source: altitudejunkies.com

20th September, 2016 | Update from Arjun Vajpai

20th September, 2016 | Update from Saulius Damulevičius
"They say the icefall is worse than ever this year. I almost shit my pants crawling over the abyss on a system of moving ladders. Same way down tomorrow."

Source: facebook.com/horizontas

19th September, 2016 | Update from Nobukazu Kuriki
"Two days before went into the C1 of the 5800m, but makes a lot of snow, has been one o''clock back to Advanced Base Camp (ABC).
There was snowfall in the ABC overnight from yesterday. Although snow melts quickly because of the high temperatures, I think that pretty piled up in the C1 or more. Once Back decisive factor in ABC this time, it was because in order to avoid the avalanche of this snow, and the "jet stream" from 23 days are approaching. The most troublesome enemy in the autumn Everest, the period of the wind, called this "jet stream"...But this year''s opponent, is going to be a "snow" than wind."

Source: facebook.com/kurikiyama

19th September, 2016 | Manaslu Summit - New route possibilities
Alberto Zerain change plans and seeks to open a new route to the summit of Manaslu. On Saturday after studying the mountain, both agreed that there was a new line with possibilities on the north side of the mountain. After a rapid rise on the same Saturday, which left a deposit of material about 5,450 meters, the two mountaineers were convinced that the route was feasible.
This morning, seeing that time gave them a new opportunity, Alberto and Mariano have come to equip a thousand meters of track, leaving just 300 meters of fixed rope in the most exposed steps. From the field I, Alberto confessed us that they were "very motivated and happy. Tired, yes, because opening up route takes a lot of weight."

Source: 2x14x8000.com

19th September, 2016 | Update from Tashi Sherpa

19th September, 2016 | Update from Saulius Damulevičius
"Today we had puja ceremony and went to C1 (5600 m). Had to jump through many crevasses. Good training before tomorrow''s ascent over the broken icefall to C2."

Source: facebook.com/horizontas

18th September, 2016 | Update from Arjun Vajpai

18th September, 2016 | Update from Saulius Damulevičius
"We reached BC (4850 m) today and were warmly greeted by a bunch of old friends. Now we plan to scout route up to C2 and descend to BC before our summit push."

Source: facebook.com/horizontas

17th September, 2016 | Update from Christopher Manning
"On our way to C3 6800m for acclimitization!"

Source: facebook.com/discosquirrel

15th September, 2016 | Update from Kilian Jornet #SoMLEverest
Kilian Jornet cancelled the speed climb on Everest.

7th September, 2016 | Update from Dipankar Ghosh