Bengali team braves adverse conditions to reach the peaks of Reo Purgyil

A team from Kolkata has successfully reached the summit of twin peaks Reo & Leo Purgyil (or Leo Purgyil I (6816m) & Leo Purgyil II (6791m), according to IMF record) in the first week of August. These twin peaks are located near Nako village, Kinnaur district, HP, right on the India-China border.

The team includes 8 climbers from Bengal namely Rajsekhar Maity (Leader), Barun Mazumdar, Sayantan Dutta, Sujit Bag, Pradip Bar, Koushik Das, Avik Mondal and Subhajit Banerjee.

Rajsekhar Maity, the leader of the team says, "The main objective of this expedition was to revive the history of a technically challenging peak in a remote place of India, which was long forgotten."

Leo Purgyil I is technically a rocky peak having a jagged, sharp, steep, broken ridge with several rock towers and severely high exposure over both the sides. Leo Purgyil II is a snowy peak.

The true summit point of Leo Purgyil I was (officially) reached only by 2 teams before, first in 1971 by ITBP (Indo Tibetan Border Police) team and the second, in 1991 when a group of climbers from Mumbai reached the highest point. [HJ, vol 48, 1992]

The team started their journey on 20th July from Kolkata and reached Base Camp, after 3 days' trek from Nako, on 27th July. They reached the Advanced Base Camp on 30th July. Throughout the time the team faced extremely adverse weather, still they were able to establish two higher camps on Leo Purgyil II and three higher camps on the ridge of Leo Purgyil I.

Sayantan Dutta and Avik Mondal, along with 2 sherpas, Dawa Sherpa and Pemba reached the summit of Leo Purgyil II on 4th August at 5:30am.

Pradip Bar, along with 3 Sherpas, Phurba Sherpa, Anup Rai and Mohan reached the summit of Leo Purgyil I on 6th August at 2:30pm.

"Reo Purgyil (Leo Purgyil I), with very little information available, found out to be a very complex problem, yet a mountain to be climbed for pure fun of fine climbing. It's a hidden treasure, and there are many more such treasures in remote areas of Indian Himalayas which are either forgotten or deliberately ignored," Rajsekhar stated after the expedition.

Expedition summary:

Leo Purgyil I (6816m) popularly known as Reo Purgyil:  Climbing route through West Ridge.
Road head, Nako (3625m) - Transit Camp-1 (4196m) - Transit Camp-2 (4851m) - Base Camp (5433m) - Advanced Base Camp (5518m) – Camp-1(6053m) – Camp-2 (6311m) - Camp-3 (6557m) – Summit (6816m)

Leo Purgyil II (6791m)
Road head, Nako (3625m) - Transit Camp-1 (4196m) - Transit Camp-2 (4851m) - Base Camp (5433m) - Advanced Base Camp (5518m) – Camp-1 (5875m) - Camp-2 (6375m) - Summit (6791m)

Team members: Rajsekhar Maity, Barun Mazumdar, Sayantan Dutta, Sujit Bag, Pradip Bar, Koushik Das, Avik Mondal and Subhajit Banerjee + HAFs

Summit members: Sayantan Dutta, Avik Mondal and Pradip Bar, Dawa Sherpa, Pemba, Phurba Sherpa, Anup Rai and Mohan

Sherpa & Support Staff: Phurba Sherpa, Anup Rai, Dawa sherpa, Mohan, Pemba Rinze

Leo Purgyil I: 6th August, 2:30pm

Leo Purgyil II: 4th August, 5:30am

Organised by: South Calcutta Trekkers Association

The rock tower and the summit of Reo Purgyil

Member climbing towards the summit camp atop the rock tower

The final summit wall, with the rock tower and summit camp at the background

Looking back from the summit wall of Reo Purgyil

Sharp and steep West Ridge of Reo Purgyil rises towards the vertical summit wall

Negotiating a steep mixed section on the West Ridge of Reo Purgyil

The pole planted by 1971 ITBP team

Pradip Bar with Anup Rai and Mohan on the summit of Reo Purgyil

Photo Courtesy: South Calcutta Trekkers Association